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Thread: Wiring Fault in 1994 Defender. Warning lights not working

  1. 13th May 2007, 05:00 PM #1
    sclarke's Avatar
    sclarke
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    Wiring Fault in 1994 Defender. Warning lights not working

    Guys, Gals, Post op and Pre op....

    I have a 94 Defender (as if you did not know)

    Well i have a LR wiring issue............. (no way)

    The oil warning, Alternator warning, handbrake, brake fail and other less important lamps do not light.....

    Picture this...

    Key is on Ign position, no lights are on, but when i crank the Park and brake fail do light, then go out. The others dont work full stop.

    So this is what i have found out.
    12v is to the globes (faulty ones) and 12v is coming out.... As it should be.. The globes are ok..
    I ground the Oil warning wire and the light still does not come on.
    I ground the Alternator wire, Same thing.
    Park brake and brake fail... Same thing.

    OK.... i know the design is as follows. All the warning lights in question get 12v and the switch is grounded for the light to work. with the exception of the Alternator, the wire from it gets 12v to cancel the 12v to the globe, this then makes the lamp go out.

    so where in hell is the fault?? It must be an open Circuit.... Does anyone know if there is a multi pin plug??? and where is it?

    No urgency, but i'd like to fix the problem soon..

    Clarkie
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  2. 13th May 2007, 07:25 PM #2
    Pierre
    Pierre is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Dodgy ignition switch, perhaps?

    All of the feeds for the warning lamps, etc appear to originate from the switch, cable colour white (+12v in the on/crank positions). I don't think too much changed in the loom structure for 300tdi over 5 years, so that's where I'd look first, other than the feed fuses.

    Perhaps this helps...

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
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  3. 13th May 2007, 08:20 PM #3
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
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    where did you check your voltages at and what with?

    if you used a multi meter in the light socket itself its possable to get phantom voltages...(and earths)

    redo your voltage checks with a 1 or 2 w 12v bulb to see if you get current enough to drive them, if possable put your multimeter in parallel with the bulb and see what the voltage drop is across the bulb...

    I learnt from dad that phantom voltages are a PITA they make things look right when they aint.. common causes are bad earths, shorting looms, OC connections/switches that are leaking voltage across from contamination (has your vehicle been forded or left out in the rain?)

    Funniest thing Ive seen is a completely corroded (nothing but that loverly powdery green copper oxide stuff left) PCB track in a stereo that when tested for volts with a digital multimeter showed 12v when tested with an old school anologue dial meter showed something like 8v and when a .5w bulb was put on all volts vanished...
    Dave

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  4. 14th May 2007, 04:36 PM #4
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    sclarke
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    Ok i should have mentioned the following.....

    i used to work in the AV industry doing low level PCB repairs.....

    The power to the globe is fine.

    I was more interested in knowing if anyone has had a similar problem.

    What i have found out from the Wiring Diagram that the Alternator warning light goes thru a Diode called G126, then it goes down a Brown and yellow wire to Connector C448 pin 3, and the Oil pressure wires go thru connector C448 pin 1.

    So where is Connector C448???

    Ohh the Diff lock light goes thru the same one also on pin 7... and it stopped working today........

    Coincidence???
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