Thread: Dissapointing fuel pump tweaks...

Originally Posted by jik22

OK, at the risk of showing my ignorance: what is it, where is it and how do I check?

the simple check is to disconnect the boost compensator sense line.

find your injector pump, on it somewhere should be an air line that goes over to the intake manifold after the turbo, might be before or after the intercooler, But id expect it to be after.

Disconnect that and plug it on the manifold side and leave the pump side open to atmosphere.

you sould experience a big drop in power but it wont puff smoke.

connect it back up and see what happens...

Thats the field test for it if it doesnt change its fubar if it does its working but may not be working properly...

*****warrenty voiding bit*******

on the top of the injector pump is a small housing thats held down by a few small screws/bolts. Carefully remove this and check it for goop, once its off take off the same airline from the manifold and blow into it as hard as you can. you should see a little bit of movement.

clean it all up and put it back together and thats all you can do that doesnt technically require a clean room (not electronics standard clean room but not just a shed)

If you have ANY doubt about your ability to gently work with your injector pump and assosciated componentry DONT....

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

<snip>

*****warrenty voiding bit*******

on the top of the injector pump is a small housing thats held down by a few small screws/bolts. Carefully remove this and check it for goop, once its off take off the same airline from the manifold and blow into it as hard as you can. you should see a little bit of movement.

<snip>


If you have ANY doubt about your ability to gently work with your injector pump and assosciated componentry DONT....

If he clicks on the link I posted above it has nice pretty pictures of the aneroid/boost compensator and how to check/adjust it.

Originally Posted by mcrover

Sorry for the Hijack but how much is the Gas inj worth and how long does it take to get the money back from the government?

I had the gas injection put on it cost $3850 . federal gov gave $2000 back you just lodge the claim with centrelink or medicare, it took about 2 weeks. WA state gov gave $1000 back it is done automatically when you take the car over the pits for the inspection, again takes about 2 weeks for the money to come through.

Originally Posted by justinc

Hey Jeff,

Wayne is spot on, timing belt should be changed , tappets adjusted and the pump timing set BEFORE any tweaking.

This will give a good benchmark for tuning.

I would also set the pump plunger lift to 1.6mm instead of 1.54mm. Tdi's like this.

This is quite safe and will give you a nice crisp, responsive engine.

FWIW I wouldn't waste $ on the dyno unless you are comparing one mod to another etc, as a comparison they are great, as a tuning tool not as good as 'feeling' the vehicle up your favourite hill.

Just my 2c.


JC

How and where do you adjust the pump lift, I would be interested in giving that a go I have done just about everything else

OK,

You need a metric dial indicator, and a tool/ adapter to go into the rear of the pump head, in the middle where all the injector lines come out there is a small plug/ bolt with a copper sealing washer under. Remove this, insert the adapter and position the tool and dial indicator. Next, remove number 1 injector and using another dial indicator and another 'tool' ( which could just be a long handleless phillips screwdriver blade....)you must locate true TDC. Turn engine backwards at least 1/2 a turn, and zero pump DI. slowly rotate engine clockwise (viewed from the front) until TDC is reached. Check the pump DI it should read 1.54 to 1.6mm of plunger lift. To adjust you will need to remove the AC tensioner and loosen 3 bolts on the pump drive gear. GENTLY rotate pump using the centre nut until the DI reads 1.54 to 1.6mm. ( We set at 1.6mm) Then reverse rotation and check again. As you approach TDC have an assistant watch the pump DI and verify that it reaches the desired lift at TDC EXACTLY. Do not forget to tighten pump vernier bolts and fit a new copper washer to apapter plug in pump.( They can leak badly)

The tool we use is actually originally used on Toyota 1HZ pumps, it will do the job fine on the bosch VE. It is I think called simply a plunger lift tool/ adapter, and will take a standard DI in an adjustable cradle.

It is a bit fiddly but well worth the effort.


JC

Originally Posted by justinc

OK,

You need a metric dial indicator, and a tool/ adapter to go into the rear of the pump head, in the middle where all the injector lines come out there is a small plug/ bolt with a copper sealing washer under. Remove this, insert the adapter and position the tool and dial indicator. Next, remove number 1 injector and using another dial indicator and another 'tool' ( which could just be a long handleless phillips screwdriver blade....)you must locate true TDC. Turn engine backwards at least 1/2 a turn, and zero pump DI. slowly rotate engine clockwise (viewed from the front) until TDC is reached. Check the pump DI it should read 1.54 to 1.6mm of plunger lift. To adjust you will need to remove the AC tensioner and loosen 3 bolts on the pump drive gear. GENTLY rotate pump using the centre nut until the DI reads 1.54 to 1.6mm. ( We set at 1.6mm) Then reverse rotation and check again. As you approach TDC have an assistant watch the pump DI and verify that it reaches the desired lift at TDC EXACTLY. Do not forget to tighten pump vernier bolts and fit a new copper washer to apapter plug in pump.( They can leak badly)

The tool we use is actually originally used on Toyota 1HZ pumps, it will do the job fine on the bosch VE. It is I think called simply a plunger lift tool/ adapter, and will take a standard DI in an adjustable cradle.

It is a bit fiddly but well worth the effort.


JC

I reckon if you ever come to vic you better bring your tools cause you could do a few of these tweaks

For those of us that are a little shy to try these tweaks

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Disconnect that and plug it on the manifold side and leave the pump side open to atmosphere.

you sould experience a big drop in power but it wont puff smoke.

connect it back up and see what happens...

Thanks - will try tomorrow and report back.

If you have ANY doubt about your ability to gently work with your injector pump and assosciated componentry DONT....

I figured it was best left to someone who knew what they were doing to play with this bit, which is why I took it to the fuel injection/dyno place to begin with.

I'll have a think about my next steps.....cheers for the info!

I have pm you with what to check and await your reply....at one time I stopped posting about pump tweaks because it got hijacked by people over complicating what needed doing ( you can do it in 20 min on a supermarket carpark where I often met people for a tweak with only a spanner and a screwdriver ) So when you have checked the pump I will advise furthur if you need help.

pistnbroke