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Thread: cooler with a bigger sump?

  1. #1
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    cooler with a bigger sump?

    Quick question:
    Is there and larger bolt on oil sump for the 3.5v8?
    Would it help with cooling?

    Same question but longer:
    I was just thinking that my 3.5v8 does get rather warm on long runs on hot summer days. Saying that she is 26 years old so she's allowed to a bit.
    In the past I have done all the usual things, engine flush, radiator replaced, gaps between shroud and fan minimised, new hoses/belts.

    I was thinking of putting a couple of bonett vents in then I was thinking that maybe there is a larger oil sump/pan that's a straight bolt on it might help cool the oil and thus the engine?

    In my world it seems to make sence more oil = cooler oil = cooler engine?

  2. #2
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    bigger oil cooler or
    maybe adding fins to the sump,,
    hey dont laugh,,
    how do you think air-cooled motorcycle engines work
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #3
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    How much bigger could you go without the sump getting in the way of the axle housing when articulating?


    Would dry sumping the engine be to expensive to be an option?

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobbo View Post
    How much bigger could you go without the sump getting in the way of the axle housing when articulating?


    Would dry sumping the engine be to expensive to be an option?
    Why would that improve cooling? Depend on where and how big the oil tank was and how big an oil cooler was used, surely.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Sometimes a leaking head gasket to the valley will cause them to run hotter. Mine (77) used to heat up a tiny bit over 110 Kmh. It didn't like cruising over 3000 RPM
    IMHO you do not need a cooler or bigger sump anywhere in Australia if you use good oil and change regularly.
    I have driven a 3.5 from Amman to Riyadh in August at ambients up to 50-55C at 120 KMh until about 10AM , when pegged oil and water temp slowed me down. There was a lot of oil used but no damage. And that was in 1985 using only Shell Helix 20-50.
    That is pretty extreme but just to illustrate that you would not reach those conditions often or ever in Australia.
    Unless you want to tow a van in 40c plus of course.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #6
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    I personally wouldnt be too worried about the oil capacity modern oils are well capable of dealing with the temperatures generated in a 3.5 V8.
    You may not want to hear this as you have already replaced the radiator but not all radiators are equal.
    You can have the radiator recored with a more efficient core (more rows).
    I personally have towed a 30 odd foot caravan in temperatures up to 53 c
    I cant remember what the core was called it may of been HEI
    If in doubt ring Keith Maskell at Maskell Welding in Alice Springs he is an old semi retired guy that has forgotten more about radiators than most experts know.

    I would be looking very carefully at the head gaskets on an older V8 that is doing this

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Why would that improve cooling? Depend on where and how big the oil tank was and how big an oil cooler was used, surely.

    John
    I was thinking of the possible increase in capacity
    • You could get the oil sump away from the hot exhaust.
    • You have the ability to fill the voided space with a big oilcooler
    • You can have a massive capacity oil tank in the back of the car
    If done properly it could have a considerable drop in oil temperatures?

  8. #8
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    The v8 has an oil cooler option - i've seen a Stage 1 ute with a factory one fitted. There must be info somewhere on how this would be fitted, and an aftermarket one would be able to be plumbed in the same.

    There would be a little more oil in the cooler, but the direct cooling would be better than more oil.
    Steve

    2003 Discovery 2a
    In better care:
    1992 Defender
    1963 Series IIa Ambulance
    1977 Series III Ex-Army
    1988 County V8
    1981 V8 Series 3 "Stage 1"
    REMLR No. 215

  9. #9
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    don't get me wrong here it doesn't over heat often but after say a few hours of soft sand work on a hot day the temp does get very close to the red line.

    I was just thinking of different cooling options.
    Cost is an issue so I wouldn't really want to spend a fortune.

    The radiator I replaced wasn't new but in very good condition. I soaked it in a very mild acid solution before rinsing out with couious amounts of water.

    Maybe it's time to get it rodded out and an engine pressured flush?
    I think that would only set me back $100 or so.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    don't get me wrong here it doesn't over heat often but after say a few hours of soft sand work on a hot day the temp does get very close to the red line.
    Electric radiator fan from Supercrap - $70
    Manual switch and wiring - $10
    Additional cooling on hot day at slow speeds - priceless
    Steve

    2003 Discovery 2a
    In better care:
    1992 Defender
    1963 Series IIa Ambulance
    1977 Series III Ex-Army
    1988 County V8
    1981 V8 Series 3 "Stage 1"
    REMLR No. 215

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