Thread: Missing, running rich and genrally crap....

fault finding time...

start out with a vaccume check, if the needles bouncing all over the shop its a sticky inlet valve or an inlet not closing. or an intermittant air leak.

do a fuel pressure check, make sure that the fuel rails pressure is stable.

then do a compression test, cold, then hot, then do a wet (one or 2ml of oil into each cylinder before testing) test and see what that reveals..

one by one with the engine off disconect sensors and go for start, if its still hiccuping and farting around that aint the one, shut down, put it back together and go the next sensor


nada?

remove your injectors fit them on longer hoses and check their spray pattern.

they all look ok?

adjust the bleed air bypass screw and see whats what....

something in that lot will make a difference and throw some light on the subject.

Vac leak, more than likely intake manifold, vac guage will tell you or try a bit of break clean while it's running may pin point where it's leaking.

It will be running rich as the computer will be trying to compensate.

Im not a rangie V8 owner and rarely work on them but I would have thought that 6 deg advance would be on the low side of normal unless you run huge compression but I dont know.

I would try a vac test first and then do what Blk Knight said, the vac guage should tell you the most, whether it be gasket, valve or drop in comp.

My money is on the airflow meter.

Next time it runs like that, try wiggling the Airflow meter plug and see if there is a change. I have fitted new plugs to them in the past to aleviate similar symptoms. The main reason for the failure of the pins in the plug is that the loom to the AF meter hangs unsupported and pulls at the plug, wearing or bending the pins in the plug.

6 deg isn't enough, I would go to 9 BTDC as these are all 8.13:1 comp engines.
JC

All good advice ^ ^ ^ & some may be prove to be necessary, but to possibly save you aggro & won't cost anything, try this........................
Switch off. Remove Air Flow Meter multiplug & with some electronic cleaner spray, do the male & female terminals.

Then, with pointy nose pliers, carefully give the male terminals on the AFM a slight twist so they are tighter when you replace the plug.

Then, see how you go. You may be surprised.


Ed. OOPS, Justinc. You posted while I was typing. Two great minds & all that shyte........................

Did you replace the rotor & cap with genuine lucas ones as i and other people have have trouble with them in the past. I put my old one back in till i got a new genuine rotor button.


All the best Mark

Originally Posted by 4bee

All good advice ^ ^ ^ & some may be prove to be necessary, but to possibly save you aggro & won't cost anything, try this........................
Switch off. Remove Air Flow Meter multiplug & with some electronic cleaner spray, do the male & female terminals.

Then, with pointy nose pliers, carefully give the male terminals on the AFM a slight twist so they are tighter when you replace the plug.

Then, see how you go. You may be surprised.


Ed. OOPS, Justinc. You posted while I was typing. Two freat minds & all that shyte........................

...And YOU editted while I was adding a quote! This means we are onto something....surely.

JC

Did not word that post right ment to say i had trouble with non-genuine rotor buttons and dist caps. Put my old genuine lucas one back in and all was good again.

Mark

bugger that means i'm totally wrong then ??

Mark