Thread: Missing, running rich and genrally crap....

Boyces aren't WRONG, just that these engines need a little more advance to help them pull a little better. Especially since 90% of them have perforated vacuum advance diaphragms!

9 degrees is a good setting, even with the vac advance working.

Trust me, I'm a doctor...

JC

haha now the coil isnt putting out any spark so she wont start, same symptoms as the other one when it wouldnt start. so ill sort it out tomorow

Ah HA....A Soft dash RR; MA chassis prefix....do you have a twin button alarm remote? Could this be another spider problem? Try a jumper wire to the coil + from the batt and see if it is OK.

JC

Originally Posted by Mark86

Did not word that post right ment to say i had trouble with non-genuine rotor buttons and dist caps. Put my old genuine lucas one back in and all was good again.

Mark

I thought I'd replace the rotor button & cap on mine (1988 3.5) today as it hasn't been done for about 230,000km . Range-Rov quoted me $69.00 for a genuine rotor button. They confirmed that the other types they'd tried all had faults with earthing through the plastic. I bought the cap & went to Performance Ignition for some custom made H/D leads. They assured me that a $7:00 Bosch rotor cap would do the job well and that it was better constructed than the original.

As for the problem at hand, it sounds electronic, maybe it was just the coil dying.

If you can't get the coil to fire, remove and clean EVERY earth in the engine bay.

Had to leave my old Rangie at Dampier Trig for two days once and again in Moruya for three weeks till I figured that one out!!!

My money's on the AFM as well.
Recently went thru all this on a friend's with identical symptoms.
Worked thru all the basics with checks & the cheaper repair items, but in the end after he paid the $90 for a trip to the doctor & put on testbook it was indeed the AFM.