Thread: Auto trans temp switch RR vs D2TD5

Don't know if this helps at all - but on the D2 there are two sensors, one on the box and another on the cooler.

On the D2 - the power flows from the fuse through the warning light then to the switch, which as you say is grounded when the temp rises.

The RR whilst slightly different - I think it mounts externally - but it still switches to earth - some models it earths the small cooling fan they fitted for the cooler.

My guess it would be the sensor is faulty.

Disconnect the wire on the temp switch at the cooler - and when the engine is cold - check the resistance across the terminals on the cooler. It should be open circuit, if it's not then the switch is faulty.

Thanks for input Ladas. The sensor seems to be closed i.e. zero resistance at ambient temp. Assuming that it's just a simple switch and nothing unusual like a thermocouple or thermistor then it seems like a simple case of a faulty switch which will have to be replaced. Can the switch be removed and leave the vehicle driveable? Obviously in the D2 if you remove the switch then the ATF will pour out. Does the same happen with the switch on the RR cooler?

Russell

Originally Posted by rjhjstr

Thanks for input Ladas. The sensor seems to be closed i.e. zero resistance at ambient temp. Assuming that it's just a simple switch and nothing unusual like a thermocouple or thermistor then it seems like a simple case of a faulty switch which will have to be replaced. Can the switch be removed and leave the vehicle driveable? Obviously in the D2 if you remove the switch then the ATF will pour out. Does the same happen with the switch on the RR cooler?

Russell

Now I haven't physically seen/handled a switch off a RR, but looking at all the diagrams it looks like it's externally mounted - sensing the temp from the external wall of the cooler - it does not look like it 'intrudes' into the fluid/cooler itself.

From reading about it - it would appear to be a simple switch - with a pre-determined switch point.

If it was a thermistor you would still have some 'resistance' reading at ambient - unless you were so unlucky to get the exact temp as for the thermistor to measure 0. bloody unlikely - but the way to check is re-test it when the engine is warm/normal temp - if it's still 0 - then the switch is buggered - but I think we already know that

I'll have another check on the diagrams/drawings to see if I can spot anything more about being surface mount.

Every picture I look at - makes it look like a surface mount.

See link - page 10

http://www.xks.com/landRover/catalog...96_133V4_1.pdf

I think the part no. of the switch is ESR4329

Why pull it out. Why not just disconnect the wires so they are open circuit?
Regards Philip A

Just had Phil at TR spares get one of my customers out of trouble while touring, very quick, very knowledgeble, and excellent service. They are definately a god send especially smack in the 'middle' of the country.
The HSE cooler conversion is a must for the Tdi D1's also, I have done one recently and it was easy on the D1. Stops you worrying about oil temps anymore. The best way to travel in a D2 while towing is in 3rd gear, it will lock up the converter at about 70 to 80k and reduce heat hugely.

JC

The obvious answer to Philip A is that having fried one transmission, and as a result having had to abandon the trip to Darwin, I'm paranoid about doing it again. The idea of running without an over temp warning lamp does not appeal.

Russell