So DarrenW,
Is it in yet, or is the colourful language concerning the fitment of 2 small Orings getting too blue to post here?
JC
Printable View
So DarrenW,
Is it in yet, or is the colourful language concerning the fitment of 2 small Orings getting too blue to post here?
JC
Justin,
I don't have the new heater core as yet. As I posted, I will be ringing around for a price next week, hopefully pick it up Sat morning and have it all back together by Sat evening (at least thats the plan)
Do you have any idea how much the heater cores are ??
Also do they come with the O rings or are they a seperate bit I should get.
Darren
The Tdi doesn't have the 'water valve'. The heater core is hot all the time. The vent flaps control where the air comes from - either the heater core or the A/C evaporator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utemad
I didn't know the V8s had a tap. It is metioned on the RAVE CD on page 4 of the 'Description and Operation' part of section 80 that the V8's had this.
Just looked at page 4 and it does say it is tap for V8 and flaps for Tdi.Quote:
Originally Posted by awabbit6
I saw another current thread here where someone posted pics of their Defender engine bay heater pipes showing that there was no water valve. I assume the heater box is the same on the V8s and Tdis so the water tap must be something the engine needs rather than the heater needs :confused:
Rang a dealer today, heater core $330. Rang a reputable after market place and they quoted $320 (forgot to ask if it was genuine). Biggest shock was the "O" rings are supposedly $20 each.
Anybody know where I might get cheaper parts in Melbourne ?
Darren
Managed to get a second hand heater core for $130. It still had the pipes connected which came in handy a bit later.
All started off well and the new heater slid into place and I liberally coated the "O" rings with rubber grease. The next 2 hrs were spent trying to line the pipes up and put the special clamps back on. The bottom pipe went on, but no matter how much pushing, pulling, levering and swearing I couldn't get the top pipe to line up. I can only assume I must of bent the pipe slightly when I pulled it out. This is where plan B and the pipes from the second hand unit came in. I cut the top pipe about 10cm back from the end (difficult under the dash) Next I cut the corresponding spare pipe about 5cm from the end. I was able to line the 5cm bit of pipe up easily and put on the special clamp on the heater. I then joined the 2 bits of pipe with a piece of heater hose and a couple of clamps. ..... hope that makes sense.
Reconnected the hoses under the bonnet filled up with water , started her up and waited for leaks... It worked.
in summary
About 6 hours labour
$130 second hand heater.
$10 rubber grease
cuts and bruises all over my hands..
would I do it again.........I'd have to think of it.:confused:
Thanks to Justin for help on where to start
Darren
Well done DarrenW, Be careful or others will send their D1's to you...I suggest you charge at least 100$ an hour to discourage them!!!!:D:D
Having a go is what its all about:cool:
JC
I have to change mine in a 94 softdash rangie, and i have a 95 disco1 with a good one in it, however, for piece of mind at $264 i think i should just go for a new one? then i wont have to pull it out twice either. Or if its not leaking now, what r the chance of it leaking not to far down the track.
Darren W. You said you were going to get some pics. of this job. Did you?
Btw, what seems different about the O rings to the std ones?
I did take some pictures whilst pulling it out. However I was caught up in the moment putting it back in....
Will try and post them tomorrow
Darren :D