Thread: any tips for wet proofing a V8?

I fitted a canvas sheet to the front of my V8 110 and the Rangie. Two press studs pop riveted to the top of the grill and just before your commence the water crossing (after you've walked it) you clip the canvas sheet to the front pull it down the front behind the bull bar. This works a treat for as long as you maintain forward motion and the bow wave level with the top of your bonnet. Don't forget to remove the canvas once you’re out of the water.

some good responses. i'll make up a cover for the front of the grill that i can roll up and bungee to the top of the bumper when not in use. at the top i'll put 2 elastic loops to hook over the bonnet catches i have.

i'll also drill a small hole in one of the fan blades to stop it from turning when in the water. although i doubt it does the viscous unit any good. however for the short periods of time that it'll be used it's got to be better than having water sprayed around inside the engine compartment.

i think these 2 ideas along with the silicon grease are probably all i'lll get done in the short time that i have.

keep the ideas coming though.

Hi Jasper, I see you are running LPG.
I discussed this with my Mech and he commented that LPG is worse for water crossings, being that if you get a misfire, you get a major backfire which normally kills the motor. Leads 5 & 7 are normally the culprits apparently.
His expereince is on petrol a misfire just causes a stutter and normally your're off again. He is an experienced Landy Mech and LPG installer.
I have crossed mud puddles with water over the bonnet, running on petrol with a liberal application of CRC, no probs. Previously running on LPG I would struggle with water hub deep.
All this could be cr*p, but it's worked for me.

Here's my temporary cut up Coke bottle fix, which worked so well it is now permanent. ZIP ties hold it in place. I do have thermo fans now too that I can turn off , which helps.
I think it's a good idea to protect the coil too (which I did in my previous County similar to mudmouse's suggestion), but my current County has electronic ignition, with the coil mounted high.


Cheers
Andre

Originally Posted by D110V8D

You could fit thermo fans, with a switch, instead of the viscous fan. The switchable fans can be turned off when wading, avoiding water being sprayed over the electric bits. If you cant/dont want to fit thermo's, then remove the viscous fan when wading in deep water.

A good spray with WD 40 or anything similar over the dizzy cap and coil usually does the job.

Wrap the front of the car with a tarpaulin, to help keep the water level low in the engine bay when deep wading.

Of course you can fit more permanent solutions as listed above, but I find it's really not necessary, unless you are driving deep water all the time.

Just my 2 cents.

^^^^x2

I've been through the macalister river, with white peaks on it, on the way to burgoynes (not that it means much to you n scotland), with the water to my screen, RR classic on 35's 40mm body lift and **** knows what spring lift, cause its all a myth start at the up side and push through on a nasty nervous angle

With an injected engine, and a coil mounted on the front,as i meant to move it, and its still there this day and 2 engines later, with nothing but overridden thermo fans

So long as you ford correctly it wont be a problem

Originally Posted by Discobunny

Hi Jasper, I see you are running LPG.
I discussed this with my Mech and he commented that LPG is worse for water crossings, being that if you get a misfire, you get a major backfire which normally kills the motor. Leads 5 & 7 are normally the culprits apparently.
His expereince is on petrol a misfire just causes a stutter and normally your're off again. He is an experienced Landy Mech and LPG installer.
I have crossed mud puddles with water over the bonnet, running on petrol with a liberal application of CRC, no probs. Previously running on LPG I would struggle with water hub deep.
All this could be cr*p, but it's worked for me.

although i run LPG, i also have the original petrol tank so could easily switch to petrol for water crossings.

CRC?

Originally Posted by jasper110

CRC?

CRC = WD40, or any other water displacement product in an aerosol can

Spray WD40 on dizzy, coil, leads, plugs, everything electrical and anything else that takes my fancy

1 - Spray on silicone grease... NOT WD40. Why?? Well, WD40 is too thin & will wash off. Spray the grease on all over the dizzy & other electrical places (coil, etc..).

2 - Make a shield for the dizzy. Chopping down a 2L plastic drinks bottle would be fine.

That's what worked for me & that car went wading through water that came half way up the windscreen!!!

M