Thread: 3.5 V8 timing cover, water pump corrosion

overheating more likely from thermo probs or other in depth items,but would warrant more in depth investigation of said housing,at least put some two part epoxy build up stuff that the name escapes me at the moment

Got the same problem (see pic).
I assume these cannot be saved?
thanks in adv,
Taz.

I always understood it was caused by Cavitation
4X4s in Melbourne were doing exchange covers at a reasonable price
I had one done a while back and they guy that did it was saying that
the new material would corrode more quickly than the old??

Tez,
Two years ago I bought a re-welded timing cover for my 85 RR.

It lasted a few months then started leaking like crazy.

Pulled it all apart and the welded stuff plus extra ally was all eaten away.

It was too far gone to repair so I fitted another from e-bay UK.

It started pitting so I welded with the Butane gas rod aluminium you see at shows.

Touch wood that has lasted, and also the water pump got a big dose of the welding rod too.

Advice I was given is to triple check ALL of the earth straps from chassis to engine as any corrosion can cause trouble in the coolant and create electrolysis.

Same advice said to measure any minute voltage in the coolant as a sign of the problem. I have now added some extra straps between the water pump to the radiator and that seems to have worked.

Having said all of that, I still have two spare timing covers and one new water pump on the shelf ready...............

Cheers
Jeff

I would replace with a new one not reco for that rover 8's dont like getting hot so don't risk it, don't want to start all over again because it got hot do we now. Water pumps have tolerances from the blades or fins to housings and if the housing is stuffed the clearances are greater thus you loose pump efficientcy( less water flow)thus overheating. DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT.

When I had my Rangy the corrosion came through to the back of the timing cover, between the two heater pipes. I fixed it with one of the two part epoxy (metal replacement) compounds. Cleaned it all up and smoothed it out. It was still going OK when I traded it 3-4 years later.
All done 'in vehicle'.


Martyn

Sorry for the resurrection but I was looking at a 3.5 today that has this issue.

The timing cover has the two inlets behind the water pump and there is a small leak beneath the passenger side inlet. The rubber pipes have been changed and it is confirmed the leak is coming from the rear of the timing cover. The waterpump etc has not been disassembled as yet to see how much material has been cavitated away.

New these are cost about $800 new and even good second hand are still around $350 so before going this route is there any point in trying a repair - tig welding, epoxy filler - even a screw in the hole.

From comments on this old thread it would seem that the answer is no but the epoxy did seem to hold up.

What is the current thinking.

Thanks

Garry

So before the replacement route