Thread: Defender Questions

1: PCF101590. About $180ish genuine.

2: Did they pull the engine out to do the clutch? If they pulled the gearbox out they should have fixed this at the same time.

3: Seals might be available.

4: Engine mounts are about $40ish, I think... Shouldn't be too hard to fit.

5: Easy to adjust, a forum search will reveal many instructions.

6: The arm that comes off the bottom of the steering box.

7: Drag link goes from steering box pitman arm (see above) to LH wheel.

8: ...

9: As per 5...

10: Good conversion, much talk in previous posts.

11: As per point 7...

12: Pretty easy to replace. Bushes are relatively cheap. I recommend and use genuine rubber ones.

13: Correct. Discs will be $100ish each. Pad set $165ish. All depends on brand. Hubs need removal for disc replacement.

14: Take a look yourself

15: ???

Well that sounds like the condition Of Grommet..... 320k and still going strong....

Thanks BJ !

Originally Posted by VladTepes

Well I have the Defender back, having treated her to a new clutch. It came back with a mechanics list of things that need doing, some in the all too near future.

Here is the list and a the questions I have. I have numbered it so that it's easier for you to answer and refer to particular parts. Thanks all !

(1) Original Recovery tank still fitted. Recommend fit upgraded tank. $80-$90 from MR, I fitted one a couple of months ago

(2) Transfer Case Intermediate Shft leaking (badly).

wouldn't have a clue, sounds like it would have been a good time to do it while the box was out

(3) Non genuine fuel filter housing leaking.

I'm guessing you have a cav filter, buy a new filter and it will have new o-rings, chack the copper washers as well

(4) L/H side engine mount cracked and perished (next service)

wouldn't have a clue

(5) Front L/H side wheel bearing loose.

when was the last time they were checked I.e. Removed and inspected? I can show you haw to adjust them up one night. I have a hub nut tube spanner you can borrow only $10 or so to buy, I carry it in the rig all the time. To adjust you will need the drive flang gasket, do u still have my old drive flanges you can make gasket out of a manilla folder I couldn't imagine they would ore tha 50c ea

(6) Pitman Arm ball joint needs replacing.

I think this comes as a kit should be easy to replace

(7) Drag Link end ball joint needs replacing.

I always get confused myself, sounds like its the front one, easy to pop off can be tough to unscrew, load it up with WD-40 or similar

(8) Tie rod ends slight movement (OK for now)

this is your rear one

(9) Rear R/H wheel bearing slightly loose.

I can show you

(10) Front and Rear axle drive flanges and/or axle splines worn. Recommend fit maxidrive oil fed conversion.

I fitted mine, once you know how to adjust your bearings the kit has good a good set of instructions

(11) Drag Link bent.

[COLOR=royalhow bent, hop under and have a look, its the front one, this one pretty much only adjust the position of you steering wheel, does your steering wheel point to the lft or right, I have an old one is pretty straight...I think, nope think it would be my old tie rod, maybe a should check.[/COLOR]

(12) Front shocky bushes

never done the fronts, cheap to buy I would reckon, should be straight forward

(13) Rear brakes pads and rotors (urgent)

if urgent u should do them ASAP, pull a wheel off and have a look how much meat is left on the pads , did they say what wrong with the rotor, you may get away with new pads for a while

(14) LH side bumper indicator not working (fitting was very rusty!

all yours



(15) this is one I added myself. Obviously in order to get at the clutch they had to remove the gearbox. is it possible they bolted it in at a different angle ? The gate seems to be offset about 5 inches to the left of where it used to be ! I have the hearbox that goes with the 200Tdi (LT77 is it?) anyway when in 5th it used to rub against my leg / knee but now it's waaaaaaayyyy to the left. It's just really weird changing gears now and I've "missed" a few today (first time I've driven it since getting it back). Embarrassing. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.

if there is a major change drop back to the repairer, maybe its now in the right position

Hope that look OK did it on the pda

My 98 defender has 370,000km's and most of what you have I have.My swivel's have no pre-load and the timing belt gets replaced monday.These thing's take time. Pat

Hi Vlad, with regard to 15, my R380 gearbox has the gearstick bolted to the actual shifter on a splined shaft.If your gearbox uses the same principal the Mechanic may simply have rotated the gearstick too far to the left before tightening it.The bolt is concealed just below the rubber boot and is relatively easy to get at. He would have removed the gearstick to make removing the 'box easy.Cheers, 130man.

90 % of that is DIY, some will require special assiting tools if it wants to be stubborn.

to do the rotors you have to pull the hubs so do the bearings at the same time esp if they have had slop in them and have been hammering, replace the seal at the same time.

Depending on how the intermediat shaft seal is leaking drying it off and pasting formagasket onto it will stop your leak temporarily.

tie rod/drag link ball joints are easy but remember to measure everything before you start and when you take it apart put it back together BEFORE you mess with the ends. tighten them up lightly shake the steering wheel then remeasure, take it all apart (dont let anyone rock the steering wheel or bump the vehicle) and make sure everthing measures up the same and just drops into place before you bolt it up tight. (99% of the time this will prevent you needing to do the wheel alignment again)


Theres lots more that can be done while you have some of that stuff apart but you should replace any seal you seperate while doing this stuff AND replace the bolts that hold your rotor to the hub.



good luck mate, if you run into trouble while doing it as a weekender drop me a line.

i wouldnt be attempting to remove the pitman arm with a 10 ton hydraulic puller........

they are very tight on the drop arm normally........




and...as for the gearstick......if you look under the boot.....there should be a bolt you can loosen and change the position of the gearstick......