Yeah I read about that... Sounds dodgy!![]()
Tip - Forget the girlfriend... Disconnect the fuel pump solenoid and just crank the engine with the breaker bar on the nut!
M
Yeah I read about that... Sounds dodgy!![]()
correct. i actually leave the injector pump wire connected, start it for a few seconds and it winds the bolt out for you too. almost all the ones we do have had locktite on them, and i always fit them back in with medium strength threadlocker to avoid them coming loose after water crossings etc.
jc
I put them in with antisieze on the threads and a drop of bearing mount on each side of the washer. Havent had one come loose yet.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Ha! You surprise me JC.
What do you guys think about not changing the crank oil seal? There's a slight oil residue in the bottom of the cover. At 150k and pretty sure it's never been changed. It's either put it back together today with old oil seal and go 4x4'ing tomorrow, or be patient and do it all during the week when I can get an oil seal. *strokes chin*
change the oil seal
I was hoping you wouldn't say that.... Back to the couch for me then!Originally Posted by slug_burner
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The O ring behind the crank gear as well!
OK, so I have the new seals... Now how on earth do I get the old crank oil seal out from behind the gear? It's stuck in there real good. I don't want to damage the outer casing right? It's quite soft?
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