Thread: What causes Drive-line Clunk ?(Defender)

I had mcnamarra 24 spline axles in my classic rangie , the long axle would fit the salsbury gut the short axle was too long

Replace the "A" frame ball joint..it helps heaps

I have fitted the maxi drive flanges to mine, they are great as they give you more spline to absorb the shock and load.

There are at least two types, one to suit both the std size axles and the other the maxi axles. the latter are longer so they use a wider drive flange from what i can see.

there a couple of caveats tho...

1) your axle splines MUST be in good nick or you will flog the new flanges out quickly again.

I fitted second hand set of county axles to mine that where in excellent condition when i did the drive flanges. these axles where a good 10-15mm longer overall than the std axles, but did fit in just fine and were a very very nice tap fit on the drive flanges.

2) You should also get the double sided stub axle seals (RTC3511 if my memory serves me rightly) and remove the inner seal so you convert to oil bathed wheel bearings as this also lubes the splines in the drive flanges.

my defender had heaps and heaps of driveline slop. it ended up being the gearbox mainshaft and transfer gear as well as the rear drive flanges.

hope it helps...

Originally Posted by Defender=1st

How much are Maxi drive axles and flanges ?? and would it be cheaper to get a Maxi drive rear difflock at the same time ??

Hi Adrian,

No probs, when you fit the upgraded axles and flanges, just fit the difflock axle(The long one is different to suit a MD locker) which costs about $40 to $50 more and the locker can then be fitted later without having to supply 1 different axle. Usually drive in drive out $880.00 for axles and flanges, Difflock is a lot more, I'll get some prices if you want.


JC

Originally Posted by justinc

The pimary wear problem with defenders is the axles and flanges, Due to a total lack of lubrication. The longer they clunk, the more upstream wear occurs. High range gear wears in the transfer case on its selector dogs, along with the selector ring. The rear A frame ball joint gets a shock hammering everytime, and eventually the front drive flanges and CV's get worn out.
I have converted 10,000km old Defenders to oil lubed axles to prevent the wear happening in the first place, and even at 20,000km old some of them have started wear due to lack of oil etc. The old counties had oil lubed axles etc, and some of them did 200K on a set of drive flanges!!!!

Fix the axles, convert to oil lube hubs etc, and do it early on if you have a low K Defender.

JC

He (JC) replaced mine with maxi's at about 45,000k. Converted the hubs to oil lube too. I had to send Mrs out to work xtra hours to pay for it all but it was a fair trade for the result.

Mines does it I thought it might be diff laps or tail shaft it happens sometimes when I excellerate or back off

but seems to be neither as the other day I tried at ever speed and every rev to hear it and couldnt, then it happened tried again at same speed same rev and nothing laps either should happen at a certian rev and certian speed so im clue less to

Originally Posted by ROVERNIT

Mines does it I thought it might be diff laps or tail shaft it happens sometimes when I excellerate or back off

Try backing off your handbrake on the drum.
Mine did that when I first got it and that was the fix.
It was the clunk when backing off that gave it away apparently.

Originally Posted by justinc

Hi Adrian,

No probs, when you fit the upgraded axles and flanges, just fit the difflock axle(The long one is different to suit a MD locker) which costs about $40 to $50 more and the locker can then be fitted later without having to supply 1 different axle. Usually drive in drive out $880.00 for axles and flanges, Difflock is a lot more, I'll get some prices if you want.


JC

Love some prices. Jc
Regards Adrian