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Thread: choice of coolant for D2 radiators...

  1. #11
    scott oz Guest
    From what I've been told use distilled water and a water wetter like red line.

    Glycol is used to lower the freezing point of water. It is a addative of the solution with a specific purpose which is not cooling or corrosioin prevention. In actual fact the glycol inhibits the cooling efficiency of water

    There was a good thread on the one of the UK forums and the conclusion was that Glycol was only necessary if you were going in to freezing conditions. Other than that a good water wetter and inhibitors are preferable

    If you go in the snow then add the glycol as then dump it

  2. #12
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    I have just put a new radiator in and was reccommened to use oat nulon long life as it is, what is speciefied for allimunium rads the person who told me this is a very specialised LR mechanic who i trust with my pride and joy and will use it

    there does seem to be alot of confussion with this topic tho

  3. #13
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    HI, I have been trying to work out what type of coolant to use etc, pretty confusing.
    Found this bit of info on another site:

    O.A.T. Coolant
    The Td5 Disco/Defender manuals stipulates you use an O.A.T. coolant.
    Use Havoline Extended Life Coolant (XLC), or any ethylene glycol based anti-freeze (containing no methanol) with only Organic Acid Technology corrosion inhibitors, to protect the cooling system

    As many know this isn't a readily available product and so we have to hunt around for a suitable alternative. The simple answer is CAT ELC (part no. 129-2151) or Caltex ELC.

    The following is a summary of what I have uncovered regarding the elusive O.A.T. coolant.
    Havoline XLC is manufactured by Texaco-Chevron
    Caltex ELC is manufactured by Texaco-Chevron and can be substituted for CAT ELC.
    The MSDS for all 3 products is the same.
    In otherwords they are one and the same. This links is to the web site for Caltext ELC http://www.caltex.com.au/products_sp...ail.asp?id=318

    Now in my case I could access the CAT ELC ($92 for 20L drum of Premix 50/50) without incurrring additional freight costs. The Caltex ELC should also be available to you and both are available in premix or concentrate form.

    I hope this helps answer a few questions. Coolants aren't all the same, but there are also not that many varieties as you might think.


    Oil Option (Mobil Delvac-1)
    This oil is one option for using in Td5 and Tdi motors. I don't use it at present, but Mobil lists it as an option for both engines. Interestingly Delvac-1 is a substitue for CAT ECF-1. All CAT oils in Australia are straight out of Mobil. Again this can be bought in 20L and 205L drums from CAT a lot cheaper than the Mobil.

    cheers
    Craig

  4. #14
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    I'm using the Nulon Red OAT coolant - It fits the required spec' for the TD5 - $40 odd dollars for 5L undiluted (so will make up 10L at 50/50 mix) from Supercheap Auto ... most larger department stores (K-Mart, etc) or automotive suppliers carry it in their auto section.

    Regular changes are the key imho ... The Nulon is rated to go 5yrs or 250,000km .... no chance I'd go that long. Mine will get changed every 20,000km ... the TD5 spec' is every 40,000.

    Coolant is cheap ... engines are not.

    Kev..

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzytourer View Post
    HI, I have been trying to work out what type of coolant to use etc, pretty confusing.
    Found this bit of info on another site:

    O.A.T. Coolant
    The Td5 Disco/Defender manuals stipulates you use an O.A.T. coolant.
    Use Havoline Extended Life Coolant (XLC), or any ethylene glycol based anti-freeze (containing no methanol) with only Organic Acid Technology corrosion inhibitors, to protect the cooling system

    As many know this isn't a readily available product and so we have to hunt around for a suitable alternative. The simple answer is CAT ELC (part no. 129-2151) or Caltex ELC.

    The following is a summary of what I have uncovered regarding the elusive O.A.T. coolant.
    Havoline XLC is manufactured by Texaco-Chevron
    Caltex ELC is manufactured by Texaco-Chevron and can be substituted for CAT ELC.
    The MSDS for all 3 products is the same.
    In otherwords they are one and the same. This links is to the web site for Caltext ELC http://www.caltex.com.au/products_sp...ail.asp?id=318

    Now in my case I could access the CAT ELC ($92 for 20L drum of Premix 50/50) without incurrring additional freight costs. The Caltex ELC should also be available to you and both are available in premix or concentrate form.

    I hope this helps answer a few questions. Coolants aren't all the same, but there are also not that many varieties as you might think.


    Oil Option (Mobil Delvac-1)
    This oil is one option for using in Td5 and Tdi motors. I don't use it at present, but Mobil lists it as an option for both engines. Interestingly Delvac-1 is a substitue for CAT ECF-1. All CAT oils in Australia are straight out of Mobil. Again this can be bought in 20L and 205L drums from CAT a lot cheaper than the Mobil.

    cheers
    Craig
    Thanks for that Craig. Wish I'd known those Cat part numbers a couple of weeks ago. Recently purchased 10 litres of Mobil Delvac 1 through the local Repco for almost $200, and I drove all over Kalgoorlie trying to find OAT coolant before eventually finding the Nulon product at Auto 1 who didn't even realize they had it in stock.

    Next time it's off to Westrac.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  6. #16
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    I use a Hybrid type coolant,( not a straight OAT type) called 'MeGHt' marketed by Prixmax It is their highest spec 3 year 100K life version. I change all Td5 coolants at no more than 40K intervals, and have done for 5 years or more. It goes in all vehicles we work on. So far no issues, in fact all D2 V8 and Td5's etc that have had their rads etc replaced even 5 yrs etc ago are still leak free and fine. Unlike the LR factory pink stuff that has IMHO caused premature radiator, heater and water pump leaks .
    (Edit: Just checked their website, megHT isn't listed but is still avail, the Meg95 listed is a full OAT)
    Nice that they have a D1 pictured doing some offroad work

    JC
    Last edited by justinc; 31st October 2009 at 11:43 AM. Reason: Wrong brand name
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #17
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    IMHO this is one of these threads which will have a counter opinion at every turn and not everyone is on the same page regarding the engine type or cooling sytem (radiator type ally, copper or brass)
    If your vehicle is under warranty then its a no brainer. Use the reccommended coolant.

    Otherwise you can use any coolant you want in any engine anywhere.
    You can use water from the tap if you want. So long as you accept that the life of your engine may not be that long.

    I ask this question:
    What is the compelling factor to change coolant types from that reccommended?

    It cannot be $ as OAT and Glycol based coolant is within $5 or the same price (at least it is here and Im not considering generic Repco or Supercheap stuff)
    Some of the info posted here goes back a bit before the OAT coolant was common place on shelves.
    So, is it members who are very remote, where, nearly all lubricants and coolants stocked have direct application with mining/ industrial equipment, who do not wish to pay umpteen dollars for a bulk pack of something specific to a brand i.e Caterpillar?

    I am no chemist and IMO unless you are a chemist and a metalurgist with your own laboratory and testing equipment and nothing to do better with your time than second guess metallurgists and chemists from numerous, independant manufacturers, it cannot be said with authority what is, or is not, best to be used.

    Having said that I also know that some of the people who should know what is what, are actually challenged in some areas.

    However I will continue to use the OAT in my TD5 because that is what is recommended by people whom are apparently much more knowledgable than me and there is nothing to be gained or saved by changing. (for me anyway)

    This coolant issue is not unlike engine oils. Plenty of oils can be used but only a few will provide the engine with the required levels of lubrication and all the critical factors associated with it.

    If you can justify and live with your choice to stay with or change a coolant type, go for it.

    Cheers

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I use a Hybrid type coolant,( not a straight OAT type) called 'MeGHt' marketed by Prixmax It is their highest spec 3 year 100K life version. I change all Td5 coolants at no more than 40K intervals, and have done for 5 years or more. It goes in all vehicles we work on. So far no issues, in fact all D2 V8 and Td5's etc that have had their rads etc replaced even 5 yrs etc ago are still leak free and fine. Unlike the LR factory pink stuff that has IMHO caused premature radiator, heater and water pump leaks .
    (Edit: Just checked their website, megHT isn't listed but is still avail, the Meg95 listed is a full OAT)
    Nice that they have a D1 pictured doing some offroad work

    JC
    I believe this is also what MR auto have found & that is why they went to Valvoline G-05,top spec in the Valvoline range.It is more expensive than OAT,but they recon less problems.

    And the debate continues,bit like oil brands......

    Everyone to their own.

  9. #19
    scott oz Guest
    Demineralised water and a water wetter unless you are operating in temperatures likely to cause water to freeze. In which case you need to add a glycol product to stop freezing.

    To best protect your engine you need to understand what you’re putting in. If we were having the same discussion on oils we’d be arguing the composition of the oil, the composition of the coolant should be no different.

    If I can find the tread on the UK forum I’ll post a link

  10. #20
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    Someone mentioned earlier on in this thread that different coolants can be mixed. This could not be further away from the truth.

    Re the choice of coolant, I believe that if you want to switch coolants, you must definitely flush the system thoroughly before filling up with new coolant. Remember, there's quite a bit of coolant lurking in the heater matrix so be sure that when you are flushing your engine, have the heater on max heat as well.

    Also, don't deviate from the required concentration. If the concentration is too high (or too low) the coolant, whatever it is, red or green, will become corrosive.

    And the traditional "green" coolant does have a shorter life compared to the "red" OAT stuff (yes yes, I know I'm generalising on the colour, but you know which one I mean).

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