Joining electrical wire, solder, spades or blocks?

**rovercare** · 27th August 2007, 06:34 AM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

This always shows up differences of opinion!

Done properly crimped connections are, in my opinion, the best for general use, mainly because they are easier to do properly. The advantage of crimp connections is that they are attached to both the conductor and the insulation. Problems can include the use of the wrong connector for the size of wire, inadequate crimping pressure, excessive crimping pressure, particularly on the insulation crimp (can break conductors particularly on thin wires) and use on wires with either too thick or too thin insulation.

John

Best done with proper insulated crimp crimpers

Or better yet, for automotive stuff, the uninsulated crimps that you put the insulator onto, with their specific crimpers they have a much better result for spade terminals

**waynep** · 27th August 2007, 08:16 AM

No jointing method is without problems but I have found this is the most reliable.Crimp using non insulated crimps and a proper crimping tool, or twist together as previously mentioned, then solder using good quality resin cored solder, then cover with heatshrink ( ideal ) or good quality electrical tape. With soldering heat the bared wire first then flow the solder into the wire. However if no dust or water is likely to get in the auto crimp connectors are OK.

**JohnE** · 27th August 2007, 09:06 AM

There are hackers and there are experts.
I am a hacker for some things
Having said that,
can someone please qualify why scotchlocks shouldn't be used,
ie the pros cons and why auto elecs use them.
I don't think I have ever not seen them used on wiring connections for trailer lights.

I noticed on the disco the other day there is a 7 pin plug for the trailer lights in the loom but the connections were scotchlocked onto the wiring.

john

**beforethevision** · 27th August 2007, 09:10 AM

Hmmm, if you intend on going swimming, solder plus adhesive lined heatshrink, or raychem splices. Cost comparison? OMG solder it lol.

Raychem splicers are about 50c each, and need a radial crimper. BIG $$$. the crimps you get from supercheap etc are ok for large wires, but are not waterproof in any means and damage smaller wires due to the crimp style. Screw terminals and grease as per mentioned is not a bad option if you think it will need undone relatively soon.

My advice? without the right gear, SOLDER IT... and use adhesive lined heatshrink. If you want plugs, order Deutsch IPD connectors. When you see the quality and price you will see why.

Cheers!

**scrambler** · 27th August 2007, 09:14 AM

Originally Posted by JohnE

There are hackers and there are experts.
I am a hacker for some things
Having said that,
can someone please qualify why scotchlocks shouldn't be used,
ie the pros cons and why auto elecs use them.
I don't think I have ever not seen them used on wiring connections for trailer lights.

I noticed on the disco the other day there is a 7 pin plug for the trailer lights in the loom but the connections were scotchlocked onto the wiring.

john

Ahhh, the joys I had one night by the side of the road for over an hour, checking and changing my entire trailer system only to find it was a dry joint in one of the (professionally installed) scotchlocks.

THAT's why you don't use them - they inevitably cause problems. And, according to Murphy's Law, the problems will always be at the most inconvenient times and locations.

**JohnE** · 27th August 2007, 09:16 AM

THAT's why you don't use them - they inevitably cause problems. And, according to Murphy's Law, the problems will always be at the most inconvenient times and locations.[/quote]

thanks but, you haven't explained why?

john

**PhilipA** · 27th August 2007, 09:17 AM

I agree with non insulated crimps and a proper crimping tool.
Proper rachet crimping tools with the correct die for tube crimping are available from Jaycar for AFAIR about $69.

I bought a heap of crimp tubes, and male and female spades a few years ago from the US on the internet at reasonable price. They are very hard to get in Australia.
I then cover with heat shrink tube of the correct size.
I have never had a problem with the connections, but have had several with my attempts at soldering.
When I use insulated crimps, I strip the insulation off if possible, and use the tool.

Regards Philip A

**Blknight.aus** · 27th August 2007, 09:29 AM

Originally Posted by County3.9

I was an avionics techo on aircraft. Crimps are considered the best and most reliable in the aviation industry. They wont work loose if done correctly. Solder tends to corrode and stiffen the wire which can lead to breakages.
Aircraft don't use quick disconnect spades, terminal blocks are used mostly. I feel spades are excellent for automotive use...I use them. Use good quality spades. The plastic plugs (the ones with two or more spades molded together)are even better because they have an inbuilt lock moulded into the plastic.
Terminal blocks are excellent. Remember, one day you'll want to disconnect things.
When I crimp on my boat I fill the crimp with and anticorrosive (like vasoline), stick the wire in, crimp, seal with shrink wrap or use amalgimating tape. Works in a very harsh environment.

seconded

**numpty** · 27th August 2007, 09:29 AM

Originally Posted by JohnE

THAT's why you don't use them - they inevitably cause problems. And, according to Murphy's Law, the problems will always be at the most inconvenient times and locations.

thanks but, you haven't explained why?

john[/quote]

Read the whole answer. It's answered as far as I can see.

Zute · 27th August 2007, 09:38 AM

Could people post where to get these special crimps and tools they mention please. And some pictures or links would be good.
I usually solder end of wire than insert into crimp. I might have to review this method after reading this.

Thread: Joining electrical wire, solder, spades or blocks?

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