Thread: Closed loop 14CUX RRC 3.9

By the way, if you have a known or suspected problem with your 14 CUX , this is not a magic cure.
You should do a diagnostic on your car before you start to ensure it is working properly, including sensors such as TPS, MAF, water temp, VSS,
A car with over say 160K, is unlikley to respond without injectors being cleaned or replaced.
Regards Philip A

Off topic

Got any idea of the effects on the 14cux without VSS, I've bought the blown 3.9 of 51jay and about to fit it, when I find spare time, but in an 86 with mechanical speedo, it has unichip aswell

I've transplanted alot of motors and the fords seem AOK without speed input, but Holdens crack the poo's

Will suck it and see regardless, but if someone knows how critical it is, its worth finding out

I think the VSS just increases idle speed while moving by activating the stepper. This is to smooth the 2-1 change on stopping.
I havent noticed any other effect but then I have never had it disconnected.
Regards Philip A

Sounds good, don't know where I can easily source some wiring diagrams for the Unichip??

No , They seem to keep the programs and diagrams a secret.
Its not hard to work out where they intercept.
Just look at the wires into the ECU that are interrupted and trace them on a diagram.
I am pretty sure they are just the MAF and TPS Mine also has a separate input from the dizzy, as it intercepts the coil signal and modifies it.
What are you looking for, which wires from the unichip connect to which wires from the ECU???
Regards Philip A

I have now written up the project as a Word document.
It is 5 megs as I have inserted photos and 2 pages of wiring diagrams, which are probably the big bits as they are scanned images. So you should have broadband.
If you want them PM me with your email address.
Regards Philip A

I have now driven a fair way on the closed loop. No economy figures for at least 2 weeks as I have a long range tank which I fill on Wednesday usually.
Driveability is good, with a slightly softer input from stop.
Only problem I have found is that when the engine is juuust warm, it will stall into D. This may be the reason that the MAF setting for Oxy sensors should be 1.8 volts, and not 1-1.4 for Australian spec cars, as this is richer.
I have not yet done this.
Overall it is going well.
I notice a "hot" smell after turning off, so the combustion is probably hotter and burning off some oil, but the engine temp is fine.
Regards Philip A

Pretty keen to see your install pdf Phillip that utemad was talking about.

Any chance you could email it to me? boxer@cunningstunts.com