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Thread: leaking transfer case

  1. #1
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    Unhappy leaking transfer case

    Hi guys,
    Own a 92 disco tdi,manual.
    Have had a leaking transfer case seal for a while,but over the last month or so it has been getting worse.
    Is there anything special about changing the seals on these
    Thanks
    Gazza

  2. #2
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    When you say TC seal... which one are you meaning? From where is the leak coming from?
    Last edited by chosen; 6th October 2007 at 02:37 PM. Reason: More explanation

  3. #3
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    Our's was leaking and on the last service MR's at Redcliffe in Brisbane quoted $1,000 to fix the leak.

    It has now stopped leaking but the oil level has not dropped too much.

    Last time I topped up the oil it leaked for a while then stopped.

    I am unable to fix the problem myself but will keep an eye on the issue.

  4. #4
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    mate had a look at it today,its the "O" ring

  5. #5
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    mate, KLR in sydney quoted me $400 for that very job, in the end i did it myself as i didnt have the cash. Getting the transfer case out is easy but you will need at least one extra pair of hands. All you do is pull the centre console out, drill the rivets in the rubber mould around the gear leavers (when you refit it use some self tapping screws that way you can remove it easily in the future) then undo all the linkages, the top bolts and the from underneath and it slides off. Some will say take the gearbox out aswell but i didnt and it was fine, mine is now leaking from the main seal between the box and the case but i think thats because i dropped the shaft on the seal putting it in and damaged it. I didnt know when i did it but you should screw some bolts into the thread where it mounts to the gearbox about 6in long or so, maybe slightly longer so you can slip the transfer case onto these and it guides it into place without touching the seal. LR says to join the transer case to the gearbox without sealant but alot of the land rover mechanics on here now use sealant more to keep the dust out rather than the oil in, but it also keeps the oil in. You can get a seal kit or about $100 and do the lot while its out, they are easy to do, just do it in a clean environment and take your time, allow a weekend so you dont have to rush.

    The o-ring is easy to fit, there is a nut on the other side of the case, just undo it, carefully tap the shaft out to expose the o-ring, cut the old one off roll the new on on and tap the shaft back in, dont tap it out further than you need to. matt
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace View Post
    ...The o-ring is easy to fit, there is a nut on the other side of the case, just undo it, carefully tap the shaft out to expose the o-ring, cut the old one off roll the new on on and tap the shaft back in, dont tap it out further than you need to. matt
    You left out the very important part about bearing preload.

    There is a crush sleeve between the pair of taper roller bearings.

    Because the sleeve has been crushed (when originally installed) it is important to tighten the nut to the exact same position, which can only be done by marking the nut and noting how far it is screwed on, before unscrewing.

    This assumes the bearings aren't worn.

  7. #7
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    'Ace' is right but there isn't any need to remove the center console & drill out the rivets for the rubber gaiter. All the job can be done from underneath.
    Another good tip, when you put the case back in. put the gearbox in gear/park & put the transfer case in gear/diff lock. that way it makes it a lot easier to line up the splines.

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