There you go 4bee. Get yourself some copper pipe and hose clamps![]()
On my 1996 D1 - the valve had never been fitted - and the control of the heat was done completely by the air flow flaps in the heater box.
Seemed to work pretty fine.
There you go 4bee. Get yourself some copper pipe and hose clamps![]()
Ladas.
Was the pipework still located in one place as per the valve, or how was it done differently?
Went for a run today with heater turned off, & it seems the HT grease is doing the trick for now.
Trying to get the above links to reply to queries ain't fun. Tw*ts!![]()
Last edited by 4bee; 17th October 2007 at 05:56 PM.
Seems you can't ditch the valve & replumb without doing other heater box modifications. I'll take his word for it.
Ordered a new valve locally & as scouse said was $49 in GST, so not worth buggering around with.
Ex-Stealer (Black Forest) $56 inc. GST overnight.
Land Ranger Spares. $49 inc. GST. off the shelf.
It's one of those items that I would have expected to cost a bomb.
Thanks for respective advice.
It is nice to have pleasant surprises every so often
Yes it is & if the valve lasts another 11 years it'll do me.
It's not as though it was peeing out, only weeping but who can say when the seal around the actuating crank might blow & then it might pee out.
I'll open the old one up after I'm sure the newie works ok, & see what makes it tick.
Info only.
For a A$49 part.
Reply from the USA.
Shipping by mail / costs US $31.75 (A$35)
Fedex Economy US $70.65
Thanks,
Steve H
Too late now, but what is in place of the valve or is it totally different in that area, Scouse?
As far as I can tell, it's just a new one piece hose.
Scott
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