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Thread: Clutch Bleeding tips? (county)

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    There is only 2 worthwhile ways

    1. get a coke bottle cap, or what ever fits, and pressurise the master cylinder resevoir, obviously not to much

    2. dont be a tightass and buy a vacuum bleeder, trust me it was the best 80 beer tickets I spent, when it comes to working on rovers
    made a pressure bleeder for the brakes on the 'fender as it was the only way I could get a bloody pedal.
    Common garden sprayer from Mitre 10, lid off a vitamin jar (and it was the right thread !) drill and fitted a barb fitting, jammed an O ring in the lid to seal and voila, a pressure bleeder.

  2. #12
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    Great idea Rick!

    I have never used a pressure or vacuum bleeder before, but I assume you need to hold the pedal down while bleeding?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Great idea Rick!

    I have never used a pressure or vacuum bleeder before, but I assume you need to hold the pedal down while bleeding?

    Nope

  4. #14
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    Rangies have a plastic insert in the top of the reservoir that has a small hole in the centre.

    There are blow down nozzle with trigger for compressed air. These can be used to pressure bleed, by holding the tip of the nozzle against the hole and squeezing the trigger gently.

  5. #15
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    its also easier If you put the front of the vehicle on ramps that give the body about a 10 degree lift at the front...

    Gives the guys at work the ****s when I do the clutch bleed in 5 minutes

    the bush method I use

    park it nose up hill slightly

    1. fill the resvior
    2. pump slowly but steadily till you get a semblence of pedal then grab a long screwdriver and jam the pedal down to the floor by ising it as a spar between the seat box and the pedal (usually takes about 6-10 applications the first time)
    2a. dont let the fluid level get too low in the master cylinder or you will wind up in the same box you started at.
    3. go and crack the nipple carefully watch the flow, as it starts to slow down close it off

    4.repeat steps 1-4 untill you have had 3 bleeds with no bubbles in them

    DO NOT STAB OR STAMP AT THE PEDAL Slow long gental applications is the secret to this method.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    its also easier If you put the front of the vehicle on ramps that give the body about a 10 degree lift at the front...

    Gives the guys at work the ****s when I do the clutch bleed in 5 minutes

    the bush method I use

    park it nose up hill slightly

    1. fill the resvior
    2. pump slowly but steadily till you get a semblence of pedal then grab a long screwdriver and jam the pedal down to the floor by ising it as a spar between the seat box and the pedal (usually takes about 6-10 applications the first time)
    2a. dont let the fluid level get too low in the master cylinder or you will wind up in the same box you started at.
    3. go and crack the nipple carefully watch the flow, as it starts to slow down close it off

    4.repeat steps 1-4 untill you have had 3 bleeds with no bubbles in them

    DO NOT STAB OR STAMP AT THE PEDAL Slow long gental applications is the secret to this method.
    So you've just explained the normal method of bleeding, the one that Ben is having trouble with

  7. #17
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    theres 2 differences to it...

    1. the screwdriver lets you do it yourself

    2. park the thing facing uphill

    3. (just incase you think #1 doesnt count) the do it slowly and carefully bit....

    Ive seen a lot of guys sink the pedal really really quickly on the first couple of applications and this areates the fluid and traps it in the master cylinder and can take some serious persuasion to get out or leaving it overnight to burb back so you can do it again...

    It works even better if you park with the left hand front higher than the right....

    some times the tinyest changes make the biggest difference.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    theres 2 differences to it...

    1. the screwdriver lets you do it yourself

    2. park the thing facing uphill

    3. (just incase you think #1 doesnt count) the do it slowly and carefully bit....

    Ive seen a lot of guys sink the pedal really really quickly on the first couple of applications and this areates the fluid and traps it in the master cylinder and can take some serious persuasion to get out or leaving it overnight to burb back so you can do it again...

    It works even better if you park with the left hand front higher than the right....

    some times the tinyest changes make the biggest difference.
    Yep, I see's 'em, but sometimes you just get the one that doesn't bleed, I'm telling ya, once you've had a vacuum bleeder, you never go back to any other way

  9. #19
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    you can still get it wrong with a vaccume bleeder and if you cant ever get it to bleed up properly then the primary seal on the master cylinders piston is shot and acting as a one way air valve....... and the bugger of that is

    when you pull the seal out you wont be able to spot that its shot... the bugger looks absolutely normal..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    you can still get it wrong with a vaccume bleeder and if you cant ever get it to bleed up properly then the primary seal on the master cylinders piston is shot and acting as a one way air valve....... and the bugger of that is

    when you pull the seal out you wont be able to spot that its shot... the bugger looks absolutely normal..
    Get it wrong with a vacuum bleeder, I doubt it, had it for a few years now, and pobably bleed no less than 50 vehicles, NEVER had any trouble unless there was a fault, I'll leave you with your method but

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