Hot Hot Hot

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

It is possible the bigger fan may have been fitted to overcome an overheating problem, although overheating on this engine indicates a real cooling system problem, particularly this early in the summer.

First thing I would check though, is what the actual temperature of the engine is getting to - the gauges fitted to Series 2a/3 are not particularly accurate, and further, are susceptible to errors, for example, from a faulty earth on the voltage stabiliser (on the back of the speedo on the S3. A quick check for that particular problem is that it will cause the apparent temperature to vary when the instrument lights are on/off, and also with engine rpm, although the response in both cases is heavily damped. Ideally you should measure the actual temperature in the radiator header tank when at normal operating temperature (close to red). Should be around 75-80. (be very careful removing the cap to put the thermometer in). I would comment that with a new sender fitted the normal operating temperature of my 2a is near the red - and it is operating at the right temperature - either the gauge or the sender is out of tolerance, I suspect the new sender!

The major problems with running without a thermostat will be slow warmup and overcooling, but if removing it makes a difference, check the opening temperature of the thermostat, and that it is opening fully. If it is opening fully and at the correct temperature, then the thermostat is not a problem.

John

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Just an update on my overheating problem. I went to stockton on the beach on sunday and it was a pertty hot day, I gave the thing a good flogging and an italian tune up and managed to get the temp up into the red zone.

I tested the water temp from the radiator while the gauge was in the red and mesured about 84 deg. so I think that the temp sender is not accurate. Is it possible for the temp to be much higher in the motor than in the radiator?

Some one told me that the old 2.25 lt diesels are one big heat sink and you couldn't kill it if you tried. so I tried and the thing still wanted more.:D:D:D

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Originally Posted by willvine

Just an update on my overheating problem. I went to stockton on the beach on sunday and it was a pertty hot day, I gave the thing a good flogging and an italian tune up and managed to get the temp up into the red zone.

I tested the water temp from the radiator while the gauge was in the red and mesured about 84 deg. so I think that the temp sender is not accurate. Is it possible for the temp to be much higher in the motor than in the radiator?

Some one told me that the old 2.25 lt diesels are one big heat sink and you couldn't kill it if you tried. so I tried and the thing still wanted more.:D:D:D

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yes its possable but only if youve gotten clogged hoses or housings.

when you check the temp do so with the engine running and give it about 1000rpm while you do it.. If youve gotten the problem of clogged up hoses or fittings you'll have really poor circulation in the radiator.

Hoses are all good and near new. I flushed the cooling system out as per the manual, alot of rusty water came out, but seemd to flow nicely with the garden hose stuck in the temp sender hole.

Will one of those temp guns work where you just point the gun at the spot and get a surface reading?

sure will but I prefer to open the radiator and drop in a thermometer but your right so long as you keep some kind of coolant in the system good oil in the sump and dont go round revving it like a rotary theres every chance that the 2.25 diesel will outlast you.

my RR used to overheat way too much, I pulled out the radiator, lay it flat and filled it with a weak acid/water solution let it soak for a few hours and flushed it, (backwards) with a hose. Then replaced the coolant, replaced the none existant thermostat and all was well.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

yes its possable but only if youve gotten clogged hoses or housings.

when you check the temp do so with the engine running and give it about 1000rpm while you do it.. If youve gotten the problem of clogged up hoses or fittings you'll have really poor circulation in the radiator.

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just another update, I think I may have blown the head gasket but not certain ? I ran the engine to normal operting temp today and when i took the radiator cap off to test the water temp there was white froth in the water
what have i done:( . I think I may have killed the car. If this is the case is getting the head gasket replaced very costly on the 2.25 diesel motor and should i get other stuff done while the head is off. It blows a bit of smoke when idleing but none when running hard.

the froth may be the pump cavitating...

fill it right to the brim. set high idle and it might froth again as the head purges (dont forget the heater needs to be turned on if fitted.)

keep a hose handy and leaving the cap off gradually add water untill you get the froth out. then if it blows bubbles in the coolant youve got head/gasket hassles.


smoke under load is a stock fitment on these engines but an injector tune up normally sorts it.

As blknight says, you have not necessarily shown that the head gasket is leaking. But even if it is, unless the engine has been grossly overheated (all paint and oil burnt off head and upper part of the block) then the most that is likely to be needed is a slight skim on the head and a new gasket, plus, while you are at it, valve grind and stem seals plus overhaul injectors. Even if you pay someone to do it (and all of the work except the skimming and injectors you could do yourself) you should have change out of $1000. It is not an expensive engione to work on, particularly if you compare it, say, to a Td5

John

What Tank just said is right.I read somewhere about the GTHO's at Bathurst boiling as the teams ran them without them to combat the heat when there in a line and the high rev's circulated the water so fast it wouldn't pick up the heat.One of my series 2's used to have a temp gauge that followed the fuel level one.When it had a full tank the needle was in the red and as it burned off the needle come down. Pat

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Originally Posted by PAT303

.........One of my series 2's used to have a temp gauge that followed the fuel level one.When it had a full tank the needle was in the red and as it burned off the needle come down. Pat

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See my post about electrical problems with the gauge - that would have been a problem with the regulator or wiring.

John