Thread: Stage 1/county./defender/perentine brake warning

I didn't notice that difference with the backing plates so very concerned that I have them the right/wrong way round. The shoes should be fitted with the flat leading edge depending on rotation (didn't explain that well so will wait for your photos).
Thanks for this post.
David.

dave correct me if I'm wrong here (been a long time)

but ar'nt the backing plates liped.....so how can you

get em the wrong way round...

T

ill also be watching this thread as im constantly adjusting the rear brakes, on my county ( i thought it was just crappy drums)

Waiting Waiting, cant wait... i'll convert to Disc

Originally Posted by tony

dave correct me if I'm wrong here (been a long time)

but ar'nt the backing plates liped.....so how can you

get em the wrong way round...

T

simple put the left one on the right hand side and the right one on the left hand side....

I'd torn my hair out for a day and a bit trying to nut out a "brakes not ok" result on a test, thought I had it beat when I found that the rear shoes were at about 50% and one drum was right on the limit and another was out of round by about 8 tho and oversize on the extended part of its oval. as I was to find out ... dunt douhhhhh sorry, survey says "no, you have a lot more work to do yet"

Replacing the shoes something didnt look right so it was time to hit the books, make about 4000000 phone calls trying to ascertain the actual setup, measure 12 differnt rover setups and check the result of a different similar job EMEI's make the assumption that the backing plates are on the correct way...

I can now officialy say

Landrover Rear Drum Brakes? Dont tell me landrover rear drum Brake I KNOW landrover rear drum brakes......

this all came to light over a broken front axle.....

The biggest problem I had was the replacement shoes were of the cheapy, generic equally bonded type NOT as a pair of leading and trailing shoes and the vehicles brakes had been fitted corectly inside the drum so when i marked them for position, did my comparison and installed the cheapy shoes Naturally they were in incorrectly... There is an easy fix IF you happen to come across these shoes when you have the backing plates on the wrong way around BUT I dont recomend it.


The EASY fix... (but dont do it unless your in the field and dont have the gear on hand to sort this properly IF you wind up in this situation give yourself a headbutt for not doing your checks prior to departure and finding your nearly worn out brake shoes/drums)

IF you find your backing plates on the wrong way around And youve got the cheapy shoes put the cheapy shoes on backwards as in left on right and right on left that will line up the snail cams and the pins on the shoes correctly and the brakes will work as normal... Once you have the shoes in this postion but not fitted up (you do test fit your parts before assembly where practical right?) carefully sand/grind a taper about 1/4 of an inch wide across the top edge of the brake lining that extends to about 1/2-2/3 of the depth of the lining. Ideally you do this on all 4 edges But I dont unless Im having fitment issues with sliding the drum over the shoes.

The reason I dont is the lining dust is potentially a health hazard and your not supposed to wet grind the shoes, Dont ask me why I would have thought you could have but the manufacturer says dont.

Thats just a heads up for those who know what they are looking for, For those who dont, Dont panic (yay weekly HHGTTG quote) the epic battle of David and The landrover rear drum brakes complete with pics should be in on monday evening.

Originally Posted by sclarke

Waiting Waiting, cant wait... i'll convert to Disc

im looking already, ill race ya.

Here it comes. photos loadin in photobucket as I type....

first up


WARNING......

This stuff messes with the following

1. Wheel nuts
2. Brake assemblies
3. Brake hydraulics
4. Wheel bearings
5. stub axle assemblies

If the thought of any of that not being right or is daunting to you you probabley shouldnt go past the checks I'll identify in this post This is not an absolute how to and the assumptions that you know how to handle your spanners ,drive a torque wrench support the rear of the vehicle while the wheels and brakes are off have all been made. Any frell ups with any of the above items have the potential to get you dead, or worse.

You do any or all of this and its all at your own risk, Ive done what I can to make sure its as repeatable as possable but you will encounter some differences and thats where your going to need to rely on your own experience. If you dont have any of your own, borrow someone else's (ask questions yeah?)


End of warning

Since this stuff is safety related Im not apologising for the size of the images, If I needed the entire storage ability of the internet to get this across Ida used it.

Still with me here?

ok so heres how to check for the lefted right and righted left brake backing plates... Ive painted the studs white to make them stand out and in the front picture the ruler is partially obscuring the cam bolt.




rotate the cam bolt untill one of the faces is perpendicualr to the line from the stud that mounts the slave cylinder then measure from the nearest edge of the stud to the nearest edge of the bolt.

The pics show it as the wrong way around the longer distance should be towards the front of the plate, about 100mm, and the shorter (90mm) to the rear.




they are a bit blurry but you can just make out the cam through the inspection slots on the shoe next to the cam pins.

these two pics show how the cams dont quite do their job when the shoe/backing plate is not assembled correctly

heres how they should look



Now im only holding them in place in those pics but you can see the alignment is much better.

All Ive done here is flip the shoes around 180 keeping the cam pins (which protrude the same distance on both sides of the spine of the shoe) at the top. If you have and want to use the generic shoes with no lead/trail install your springs now, put the drum and wheel back on then adjust the brakes and you are done

just for fun, imagine that I hadnt written left + right on the plates could you have picked the right ones?

Ok now the inital check you can do with the wheels on the ground, the secondary bit, (eyeing the cam to pins) can be done with the wheel off, the drum removed and the axle on a stand doing one side at a time. But if you have the problem you cant go anyfurther without getting some stuff and getting the whole back end off of the ground.

ok so assuming youve already got the stands and the back ends up off of the ground your going to need the following consumables

1. 500ml brake fluid
2. 500ml diff oil
3. loctite 271
4. grease
5. rags
6. 4 8mm spring washers (brake slave locating bolts)
7. 2x drive flange gaskets
8. 2x hub bearing locking washers
9. (possabley) 2x axle to stub axle gaskets
10. a set of brake shoes

Youl need the following tools

1. wheel brace (I used a rattle gun and a 27mm socket)
2. 14/17mm socket (for the drive flange bolts)
3. 52mm socket (for the wheel bearing nuts)
4. 2x long handled flat blade square shank screwdrivers
5. 13mm 3/8th drive socket and ratchet (brake slave removal)
6. 11+ 13mm pipe spanners (for brake line removal and bleed nipple)
7. brake hose clamp
8. 17mm ring spanner + socket +ratchet
9. torque wrench for 10nm and 50nm
10. wire brush (to clean up the backing plate)
11. hammer and punch (to fold over the new lock washers)

heres some I prepared earlier



check out your shoes make sure they look like the shoes in the middle of this pic



measure the top edge of the shoes from the lip where it becomes full width after the taper thusly



35mm for the front (leading) shoe and



14mm for the trailing

This pic shows the generic shoes (outer most set) that have no lead or trail setup.



The more observant of you will notice the white marks on the new (but wrong) shoes these are the holes the springs go into. I did a comparative mark up before I fitted them the first time around.