Thread: 8 blade oil cooler fan

The eight bladed fan is an option, and normally comes with double belts (hence the new pulleys). If fitting one it is a good idea to also fit the tie bar between the flywheel housing and the cross member to minimise the chance of the fan hitting the radiator.

If the rest of the cooling system is in good shape, the eight bladed fan should only be needed for stationary or very slow use (same for the oil cooler), even in very hot conditions.

John

I only have the problem of overheating up a long slow mountain pass when there is not a breeze and 30'C plus
I did also mount and electric fan in front of the cooler/radiator but even though it cuts in it makes little difference and the temp just keeps climbing. The oil temp actually gets hooter than the water temp and when I shut down the engine to allow the oil to cool off the radiator starts to boil over.
By the way, the radiator is brand new, pump is 100% and I cleaned out the oil cooler inside with mild acid clean a few years back when overhauling the motor.
I am going to have to post in the UK to see if I can get the correct fan blades and pulleys.
Cheers
James

Originally Posted by CapeLandy

I only have the problem of overheating up a long slow mountain pass when there is not a breeze and 30'C plus
I did also mount and electric fan in front of the cooler/radiator but even though it cuts in it makes little difference and the temp just keeps climbing. The oil temp actually gets hooter than the water temp and when I shut down the engine to allow the oil to cool off the radiator starts to boil over.
By the way, the radiator is brand new, pump is 100% and I cleaned out the oil cooler inside with mild acid clean a few years back when overhauling the motor.
I am going to have to post in the UK to see if I can get the correct fan blades and pulleys.
Cheers
James

It is possible that in the circumstances could allow overheating, but a few of points -

1. The electric fan probably gives as much extra cooling as the eight bladed fan.

2. When working hard, oil will normally be hotter than the coolant

3. When you stop to cool off, the engine should be allowed to idle (even a fast idle) rather than shutting it off, to keep the coolant and water circulating and the air circulating through the radiator.

4. I would be looking for additional causes for overheating, such as manifold air leaks, ignition timing and dragging brakes.

John

Thanks Mate

I did try idle like you said but the oil temp kept climbing above the 100'C so I had to shut down. Seems the only way the oil temp drops quickly is an engine switched off.
I suppose it is better to boil the water a bit than burn the oil

I have checked all the other items and am at a total loss. I even acid cleaned the sub assembly with an acid bath and pacifying after to make sure there was no gunk in the water passages.
The only thing I am a little suspiciose of is the oil pressure. It runs at 6,5 bar at quite a few revs. The oil cooler system has a different spring specified for the oil pump but I noticed before overhauling my motor that the oil pressure was very low. So when I took out the oil pump I noticed that someone had left out the small ball bearing below the poppet and spring and this brought up the pressure all be it quite a lot. Better too high than too low I guess. At idle the pressure is normally at 1,5 to 2 Bar when hot but 6,5 bar at 80 km/h.
I am not too concerned as it is only at extreme ambient and hill climb that gets her really hot, so I just chill for 20 minutes and carry on.
Thanks anyways.
James