Most of the racing crowd use a yoke of one sort or another around the tail shaft in case of failure.
It should be feasible, taking note of the clearance needed for extreme articulation.
Due to the recent death of my front driveshaft from the DC joint it has got me thinking that if I were travelling at a higher speed I would be replacing the gearbox as well, I am getting a new shaft made up with a greasable joint however if it happened again there would be nothing stopping the shaft from destroying the gearbox,
My question
Would a metal semi circle bolted (either bar or a deflection cone) located around the top of the shaft be enough to deflect a failed shaft into a downwards direction therefore saving the floor, chassis rails and gearbox from damage?
Of course not touching the balanced shaft but there incase of it's failure.
Most of the racing crowd use a yoke of one sort or another around the tail shaft in case of failure.
It should be feasible, taking note of the clearance needed for extreme articulation.
The commercial Chev Ute - [like the Suburban, but the poverty pack that was used for ambulances a few years ago], had a section of flat steel about 2cm wide bolted under the body, acting as a yoke around the tail shaft - in case it broke at the diff end.
The flat U shaped yoke had a bolt on each end securing it, so if it was knocked, it could swing / pivot on those bolts without damaging anything. I suppose you could do a similar thing & invert it so it stops the gearbox end of the shaft flicking up.
Yep cant see why a tail shaft loop style thinomagig couldent be fasioned up to save the slush box from damage
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check out some japanese light trucks with the extension drive shafts ( long trays) they usually have them as standard,
there was a mob in that advertised them in one of the off road mags a few years ago.
remember years ago reading of a horrifying front uni failure in a holden out west, dropped the driveshaft, it dug into the dirt and flipped the car, they all died of course.
john
Did this some years ago. Was underneath the 2A & thought, "Wtf if the front joint on the rear shaft lets go?"
A bit of 1/2 steel rod with some flats welded to the end & bolted up, I had a mod that wouldn't allow it to drop onto the road & do a "leap frog".
Never used but good insurance.
I agree, we use loops/bands of steel around tractor PTO shafts in case of failure, these can have quite a bit more momentum than a prop shaft. Only ever had one shaft fail, and the loop stopped it from futher damageing the implement and tractor.
Pretty easy to put together, a piece of rod or flat bent to a circle and secured properly will do the trick.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
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