Window prob - fixed

**Quiggers** · 11th November 2007, 08:10 PM

Been raining lots here, 230 mls over the past week....

The drivers door lecy window went down and didn't come back up during another downpour last Thurs...

Pulled it all apart today and discovered the probo...

The window had traveled past the point of no return, God knows where the bump stop went...

Inside the door, one of the lift arms, a slave, had 'detracked' and the window was not going up....

I relocated the arm into its track.

The bottom of the door now has a cut down 'pool noodle' inserted, which works perfectly as a bump stop.

Window goes up, window goes down etc

Love to know what the old bump stop was and where it went

Cheers, GQ

**LandyAndy** · 11th November 2007, 08:15 PM

Im guessing mine is the same,I bought a new complete unit of ebay.Havent found the motivation to fix yet,getting real good at stopping the window just before it starts clunking!!!!
Andrew

**Quiggers** · 11th November 2007, 08:27 PM

Andy, look down into the door where the window goes away. I did this for a few mins, guessing what I might find.

The assy is a scissor type action, one arm is active, the other follows, both fit in tracks....

The door trim needs to come off, as does the power lock, easy stuff.

Have a look and I'm sure it will become obvious...

Cheers, GQ

**JohnE** · 15th November 2007, 08:39 PM

Hey GQ, the there is no bump stop on the bottom of the window, what happens is the electric motor comes to the end of the toothed half track and it stops.
beware if the end of the scissor mechanism came of the bottom track one of the rollers has probably come adrift or disintegrated. the rollers on the early ones were round plasticy things, the new ones have square track guides.

going up there is a stop, its the plastic thing that is screwed to the track sits on the back as you look through the hole in the door. Held in by by a phillips heads screw.

john

**mrapocalypse** · 16th November 2007, 11:06 AM

It's a pretty common problem that the nylon runner wears unevenly then falls to bits! That's why mine jumped out of it's rail!

It's apparently impossible to replace just the roller, there's a rivet that's hard to remanufacture. I paid over $200 (without the motor) for a new armature thingy from Land Rover cos I was desperate - then bought a SH drivers side just in case from ebay for 50 bucks.

It's crap manufacturing, the pass window never gets used on our truck. No excuse for it to fail after 50K.

**Quiggers** · 16th November 2007, 12:29 PM

Originally Posted by JohnE

Hey GQ, the there is no bump stop on the bottom of the window, what happens is the electric motor comes to the end of the toothed half track and it stops.
beware if the end of the scissor mechanism came of the bottom track one of the rollers has probably come adrift or disintegrated. the rollers on the early ones were round plasticy things, the new ones have square track guides.

going up there is a stop, its the plastic thing that is screwed to the track sits on the back as you look through the hole in the door. Held in by by a phillips heads screw.

john

Thanks John, square tracks and guides. must be a new(er) one. (i still reckon my D1 Jun 93, is a bit of a bitza).

GQ

**JohnE** · 16th November 2007, 08:36 PM

Sorry mate, by the time you must have done your reply just after i left, i forgot to mention the doors,
the newer square blocks come on the replacement scissor arms,
as Mr A said, the rollers are near impossible to repair using track rollers, like you can with the rear door winders, I tried, had to grind the thing down so far to fit into the track, becaus eit was too wide, ended up the nylon roller bit came off the metal base, so i bought a new one.

john

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