Thread: what to do when your lift is a little higher

Yep,

Duan Phillips (VTOL Aircraft) in Garden Suburb near Newcastle. His details are on the RTA website as an engineering signatory.

thanks mate i'll call them tommorrow

Originally Posted by Grimace

OMG i was about |----| that close to just replying with this
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If you dont have a winch or duel batterys yet, spend your money on that and then once everything is level again (cause it will be). Get your self an adjustable panhard (front), and the rear wats link will need modification as it will bind way to soon.

Do a search (i think rovertym have a mod for the watts link), you will need to get one of the following for the front to correct castor;
Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good
Castor correction bushes - cheap but utter crap
Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms

All radius arms points at the chassis will be under tension at ride height, so cranking the arms at the ends or fitting a rear chassis mount kicker (try maybe Les Richmond Automotive) to the rear will releive this tension and return the bushes to unloaded at rest.

Front drive shaft will need modifcation, and rear driveshaft will more than likely need attention.

Any tyres smaller than 33" will look silly and also unless you have decent offset rims your car will look tall and narrow and will feel the same once off the black top.

I am sure there is 100 other things I have missed, but i have never owned a D2.

All in all I think a D2 on 33-35" rubber with all the goodies will be fine at 4" spring lift. It just = more $$$ thats all

Cheers
Anthony

No cranked radius arms are made for a D2

Bushes take castor to 0, which is pointless and not enough.

D2s don't have swivel balls.

33s is the biggest you can go without cutting the guards.

35s won't fit a D2 even with a guard cut

Baz.

I run 34x11.5 JT2's with 4" and a guard cut. The JT2's measure up at 35.2 x 12.

less the 4 inch now

I've looked at the rear diff and the angle of the diff isnt all that bad so with a chat to Rovertym they advised if I use D1 spring seat it will gain me 15mm more Steve at Rovertym can make Shim to correct the way the spring may react under tention (less the resk of a spring bow) and also add 5mm

As for the front end the Diff angle is pritty bad so there two option here, Rovertym and QT services Rovertym can cut weld Radius arms he also makes an casing for strengthening (the ones on the top) as for QT there developing new ones for a 4 inch lift currently have one for 2 inch lift (the one on the bottom)

Rovertym cost $730 US shipped about $820 AUD
QT Services cost $348 GPB unshipped $800 AUD

Attachment 5241

Attachment 5242

I don't think the Rovertym ones will be legal here.

Both of those pictured wont fit the Disco2.

I wasnt sure whether the either pic was a D2 or not but by the work done you get the pic RTE do them on D2 but as advised might not be legal QT have developed one but its not manufactured as yet

its a waiting game

RTE has also advised there is rough one in the sence that it doesnt really do anything steering wise more to correct the angle of the diff

so the QT might be the go I need time to save up any way the wife will have a heart attack if she find out im spending another grand