Thread: Disco TD5 2000 opinions

Thankyou all for your input.

Considering how pitiful the trade on the series 1 was going to be on vehicle on 1 year newer than it, I have decided to stay with Series 1 and dirve it till it dies.

I cant believe how little these vehicles are now worth.

going to be buried in it are ya?

IM EXTREMELY IMPRESSED WITH MY TD5 D2!!!!!!
I bought it real cheap($14990)3 years ago from a perth stealer.Had 198000ks,it lived in Broome and all but a couple of services were done at the Perth stealer.
OK had a few of the D2 hassles,but still very impressed.
During winter I sell firewood,it pulls 2 tonne just as well as an empty trailer.I actually like the driveability BETTER when its loaded up,its got a huge pulling power,goes as well loaded as empty!!!! And fuel economy doesnt suffer mutch.
Mines manual,dont use 5th when pulling a load unless my mate FatBaz is towing a load uphill behind me.His 80 series tojo(4.2 diesel man) needs 3rd gear on a hill on the trip home.I can leave him behind in in 5thJust love calling him up on the 40ch as he falls behind asking him what gear he is in,love telling him Im still pulling 5th and pulling away
Andrew

Originally Posted by davros

Iv'e got the 2000 model. $8k repairs this year.

Heads can crack, if they have been replaced by a dealer this is usually good as they should have used steel dowels to replace the dodgy plastic ones, check for coolant loss or signs of over pressurising (coolant marks from overflow from header tank) due to cracks.

Exhaust manifolds leak, leading to a sound like a squealing drive belt when at higher revs..

The injector wiring harness under the rocker cover leaks oil into the wiring harnnes and it fouls the multiplugs causing missfire or stopping. Its easy to change the injector harness but not the engoine one. Dealer could easily check for this leak, or you could unplug the main harness from the head (front drivers side under accoustic cover) and check for oil in plug.

Automatics have a too weak flex plate that has a tendency to tear apart...

Fuel pumps have a habit of stopping between 150-200k

Air suspension can be faulty, have look at condition of airbags if fitted and pipes, not that there is much to see!

The fuel pressure regulator (rear of head on drivers side, visible only from under car) can fail, leaks fuel onto the starter motor, which then fails and needs cleaning... check for leaks there for sure! Mine dripped like a leaky tap when running!

Seals fail at the transfer case input, gear oil drips down...

Above is first hand experience...

Have also heard...

Oil/coolant heat exchangers can leak into radiator, check for sludge oil/water mix in header tank.

Front wheel bearings can fail.


A retro fitted diff lock actuator is a big +, the mechanism is there but not connected on earlier models, after 2001 I think it's deleted, then put in and operational 2003 or 4?


Have "fun"

Dave

Hi Dave,

Sounds like your DII has put you through the "wringer". All the problems that you've mentioned are ones that other owners have had but I've not heard of them all happening to the one vehicle! It's like your's is an early Monday morning vehicle or late Friday afternoon one. Sorry to hear of your woes.

There's other stuff that can also happen:

1. Auto gearbox transmission hoses popping off the quick disconnects to the oil cooler.

2. Oil pump bolt not locktited at factory, coming off, causing total engine seizing from lack of lubrication.

3. Front propshaft universal joints failing, causing serious damage when propshaft flails around, smashing into gearbox and other parts underneath.

4. Cracking along A and B pillar roof welds.

5. Cracking along front fender chassis-to-body mount just behind front axle.

6. Turbo hoses delaminating (I think someone mentioned this previously)

7. Incurable driveline vibrations (typically out of balance handbrake drum)

8. Loose wiper blades (bolts not tightened on wiper arms)

9. A/C condensate leaking onto carpets (due to blocked drain nipples).

10. Idler pulley siezing, shredding serpentine belt (if you do lots of driving in water).

etc etc.

The list is endless.

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/IMG_76361.JPG


Speaking of towing. That thing on the trailer is a 1954 FIAT. I reckon the towed load was nearly twice the weight of the Disco. Dragged that from Hillston ( NSW) to Melbourne. 110 K where it was legal. Hardly knew it was there, apart from a bit more fuel consumption. I doubt the 300TDi I also run would have done that. Probably wouldn't have towed the old thing out of the shed it was in. ( the brakes were seized on. it had been there for 40 years)
OK, the D2 is chipped, but it was truly awesome.
I'd get the D2. The difference is surprising.

Now this is a blast from the past.....

If you're into towing an Auto is the only way to go, as far as the engine goes, if you can get the rocker cover off, CHECK the condition of the Cam lobes for damage, best of luck, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Equerry

Hi all,

Have been a long time Landrover fan and are thinking of moving onto number 4.

Currently have a Series 1 Disco V8 manual 1998/9 (runout), apart form the fuel consumption done 250,000km and never had a problem apart from wearing parts.

Thinking of moving onto a Series 2. We are looking at TD5 manual as we tow a Horse float.

I have been hearing of lots of problems with them, mind you I heard that when I bought all my other Landies as well.

So I am after opinions on the Series 2 probably earlier around 2000 and any major problems I should look out for.

Thanking all in advance.

Originally Posted by Railey

Now this is a blast from the past.....

Nothing like revisiting the past. Interesting to read LandyAndy's comments 8 years on.

I wonder how Equerry is going with the D1......was going to run it to death by last reports. 😀