Where do i start!!!???
Iv'e got the 2000 model. $8k repairs this year.
Heads can crack, if they have been replaced by a dealer this is usually good as they should have used steel dowels to replace the dodgy plastic ones, check for coolant loss or signs of over pressurising (coolant marks from overflow from header tank) due to cracks. 
Exhaust manifolds leak, leading to a sound like a squealing drive belt when at higher revs.. 
The injector wiring harness under the rocker cover leaks oil into the wiring harnnes and it fouls the multiplugs causing missfire or stopping. Its easy to change the injector harness but not the engoine one. Dealer could easily check for this leak, or you could unplug the main harness from the head (front drivers side under accoustic cover) and check for oil in plug. 
Automatics have a too weak flex plate that has a tendency to tear apart... 
Fuel pumps have a habit of stopping between 150-200k 
Air suspension can be faulty, have look at condition of airbags if fitted and pipes, not that there is much to see! 
The fuel pressure regulator (rear of head on drivers side, visible only from under car) can fail, leaks fuel onto the starter motor, which then fails and needs cleaning... check for leaks there for sure! Mine dripped like a leaky tap when running! 
Seals fail at the transfer case input, gear oil drips down...
Above is first hand experience...
Have also heard...
Oil/coolant heat exchangers can leak into radiator, check for sludge oil/water mix in header tank.
Front wheel bearings can fail.
A retro fitted diff lock actuator is a big +, the mechanism is there but not connected on earlier models, after 2001 I think it's deleted, then put in and operational 2003 or 4?
Have "fun"
Dave
Last edited by davros; 7th December 2007 at 12:26 PM.
Reason: had to add extra mad face!!
1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 50 years old
2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
2021 Mazda BT50 or is that DMax?
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