
Originally Posted by
harlie
Hi Taz - I agree with John above
I would recommend that you get as much weight on the ball as possible (your legal limit of 150kg). When I purchased my boat (gvm 2.8t) it was set up with less than 20kg on the ball and at speeds over 80k was downright dangerous, would get side to side swaying up big time. As boat trailers are adjustable we moved the axel assembly back (only about 6 inches) resulting in just under 250kg on the ball – completely transformed the setup – very stable at 100 -110k and high side winds. As I understand it, the theory is that a balanced trailer will act as a see-saw - both up/down and side/side resulting in the trailer (which is heavier than the tow vehicle) getting a mechanical (leverage) advantage over the car. This is compounded by the short wheel base and relatively big rear overhang (compared to wheel base) on the disco.
Think of a semi. An 8t truck can tow (with excellent stability) 35t of trailer – the “ball weight” is around 40%, and no overhang (actually negative) from truck rear axle to hitch point – massive distance from tow point to trailer axel – resulting in no leverage (see-saw) advantage. There are equations that mechanical engineers use for this and it involves:- 1 distance tow point to rear car axle, 2 distance tow point to trailer axle, 3 wheel base, 4 the %trailer weight on tow point. That’s why the US is big on 5th wheel trailers – they work on 20 – 30% ball weight. I think it is pretty much also agreed that a trailer (say camper) tows much nicer with a long draw bar also fitting these equations.
You can’t do much about the relative leverage advantage distances – except stretch the draw bar, but you can improve the equation easily by getting weight on the tow vehicle – a seesaw doesn’t rock with an extra 10% weight on one end.
The 10% rule is what the engineers recommend for all trailers hitched to a tow point aft of back bumper (ie standard towbar - not 5th wheel) provided vehicle spec allow it – if not recommended is max.
6% will be much better than 0-1. If in doubt have a chat with a respected heavy tow dealer.
Agree with how you put it. Interesting facts that agree with your points - the most stable tow vehicle I towed with is my Citroen DS - which has the rear bumper almost touching the rear wheels (plus zero sideways elasticity in the rear suspension, and the longest wheelbase of any normal car in the last fifty years). Also suggests why the swb Landrovers tend to tow better than the lwb equivalent - the tow point is closer to the rear wheels.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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