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Thread: Why window regulators break

  1. #1
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    Why window regulators break

    I think Im on to it.
    Finally got around to doing mine.My regulator is actually OK,the spot welds and slides were still intact.
    The problem was the 3 bolts that hold the motor and the 4 that bolt that part to the door were all loose.
    The gear on the window motor has cut another tooth and a half into the arc shaped lever!!!!
    My door was still factory sealed so nobodys messed with it,I reckon these things work loose,the extra play then snaps the spot welds or slides.In my case it made a bit more travel and couldnt then go up.
    My window was always clunky so if yours is take the hour to tighten it all up,you may save yourself a regulator assembly.
    How many of you found yours loose when you have fixed them?????
    Andrew
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    dmdigital's Avatar
    dmdigital is offline OldBushie Vendor

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    Hmmm, now you've got me thinking and here I was telling my self it was probably just dust and I'll clean it out next week.
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    Mine was surprisingly clean in there!!!!!
    Lost its clunks it always had!!!!
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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    I replaced a roller in the driver's side and assumed that the passenger's side clunk is the same thing happening, but maybe not. Perhaps I should investigate sooner rather than later.
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    had the front passenger one replaced in my 95 RR when I bought it 4 years ago and it stopped after being clunky since and so I took it apart to find it only had 2 pop rivets which were loose compared to the 3 really big fat ones its meant to have.

    Was surprised to open up the door on my 94 RR today to find it still perfectly factory sealed - the darn door locks are so hard to turn by key

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    Thanks for the tip Andrew.
    Guess what went bang in the Disco 10 minutes ago? Just when I had fitted the new road springs and was feeling quite cheerful

    Oh well, that makes two regulators and three door lock springs to replace now

  7. #7
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    My pasenger side went about 3mths ago and the drivers side went in sympathy a week later. Make sure when you replac them that they don't overrun my driver's side one did and i had to replace it again a month later. Luckily it was covered by warranty as at $150 a pop their not cheap.

  8. #8
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    Dhard; what do you mean by "don't overrun"?

    Just took the rear regulator out and found the pieces of the nylon roller; totally munted of course.

    I thought of making new rollers in brass - does anyone know what diameter the rollers are? Mine now resembles a 3 piece hexagon, so it is a bit hard to measure it.

    Also found that the grease on the motor gear and regulator was very dry, so I guess it is time to strip all the doors and replace the rollers and service the regulators.

    I also found the troublesome coil spring that grows weak and won't push the door button up. It was still there, but very rusty. I will make sure I grease that as well when I put the new one in.

  9. #9
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    I have got to the stage where I have a pretty good idea of the size of the roller and how to install it with a few modifications.

    Now for stupid question number 1: How on earth, when putting the window regulator back in, do you get the roller into the lift-track? My manual is completely quiet on the subject. Does the door top and glass have to come out; or does one of the fasteners at the end of the track have to be removed.

    I have read the previous threads on this subject; can anyone help me?

    Cheers Charlie

  10. #10
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    For some reason and i've yet to work out why the first one i replaced the motor gear would go past the teeth. After doing this several times it got to a stage where if you didn't stop it before it got to the bottom you would have to pull the door trim of so you could take the motor and regulator out, so you could put the gear back onto the teeth. Very inconveinient especially if it started to rain or if the missus is going to the shops.Alls good with new one though she said someting about getting rid of the disco if i didn't sort it out.

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