Thread: 300tdi vs td5

Originally Posted by mcrover

Good suspention helps and most of the time we sat around the 135kmh.

Big wide straight road with no hills in sight and all you could see was road and dirt.

I wound it up to see how fast it would go and then to see if it would hold it easilly or not.

It held it fine until the road started on a slight incline and it dropped back to 135kmh so I kept it around that most of the time.

I don't doubt it's true but I found that undulations in the road made disco start to move about abit. Mind you it was on a single lane country road when i had her up to 135 not really the place for speed. I just wanted to see how fast it would go i'd say on dead straight slope with a tailwind she could probably nudge 150.

Originally Posted by dirty130

I really don't think that mechanical V electronic fuel control is a valid argument. I defy anyone with any mechanical nous to repair a faulty fuel pump or injector out back o beyond with the proper sealed room and tooling. Just as the electronic gear would be needing its diagnostic tricky bits.

your on lets see you do a TD5 Injector in the field and get it to seal correctly... ditto repairing the fuel pump, worst case scenario on a tdi I can plumb the injector pump output straight back to tank for one pot and run on 3, fit any kind of electrical fuel pump i like to bypass a dodgy lift pump or just gravity feed it from a jerry on the roof. and I can probabley do all of that in the time it takes you to get the fuel pump out of a stock deefer or a fully loaded disco. let alone get it going and repacked.

Originally Posted by mcrover

The real question is, how often do mechanical pumps die.

To quote an old duffer mechanic mate of mine "compared to this new jap electrocrap mechanical pumps never die, they just go out of spec" in an emergancy prime a pump thats a bit out of spec with some engine oil or better, get it to start on that and It should keep running on diesel once it gets some revs on...

Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph

Happy New Year McRover and All.
Mac, you are correct but IMHO, not for the reasons most people think.
Electronics are harder for the average mechanic to work on, because they are not trained or skilled enough. They are mechanics, not Electronics Technicians or Auto Electricians.
It is this that often makes repairs more expensive, the lost and wasted time diagnosing correctly.

Caveat: The above does not imply that mechanics are simpletons, just that they are good at what they know, not what they don't know.

It is true, I am biased, but I choose stuff with electrikery every time. In perspective, electronics as a field of endeavour is only about 30 years old, (think how good cars were 30 yrs after invention). Give it another 30 or 40 and most everything we do will be not only controlled by electronics but be electronic.
I certainly believe that adding a healthy dose of ergs to anything makes it better and more reliable.

Again,
Happy new year to all

Ralph

my biggest hatred of all this electronically controlled stuff is that its self adjusting, by the time something is so far out of spec that its obviously not happy youve missed a lot of potential early warning signs that would have lead you to doing the "hrmm needs a bit of a tune and look at" thing and actually finding the cause of the fault. A good simple example of this is the old pipe colour check.

Originally Posted by incisor

they are tuned differently to tweak a bit more power out of them i am told.

I always thought the autos had taller gearing in the tcase by a couple of points or so.

and on the subject of the fuel economy of the tdi300 Id believe 7l/100km if driven nicely. my best ever run in big red was just a whisker under 7.5l/100 (and that was with a small trailer on) with everything going in favor of the economy factor (cool night run, dead flat roads, no aircon, 85kph following a crane... given a slightly lighter vehicle (and minus the trailer) with a slightly smaller engine running less boost all the numbers point at it being achievable.

i been following this with a lot of interest as i am about to put a 300tdi in my already lightened RRC ute. It will have the auto out of a 300 tdi also but i run 4.11 diffs and 33" tyres most of the time so i hope my gearing at 100kph isn't going to screw the economy factor too much. what rpm does a bog std 300tdi auto do at 100 and 110kmh?

Howdy Mick,

100kmh = 2200rpm 300Tdi auto with 235/85/16 tyres in lockup.

JC

Originally Posted by mickrangie

i been following this with a lot of interest as i am about to put a 300tdi in my already lightened RRC ute. It will have the auto out of a 300 tdi also but i run 4.11 diffs and 33" tyres most of the time so i hope my gearing at 100kph isn't going to screw the economy factor too much. what rpm does a bog std 300tdi auto do at 100 and 110kmh?

Hi again Mick. Just done the calcs, at 100kmh:

with 4.11's, 33's, and the stock 1.22:1 transfer ratio you are getting 2730rpm.

With 1.003:1 transfer gears from a 727 RR in the LT230 you will be back at 2236rpm. Almost standard.


JC

Originally Posted by justinc

With 1.003:1 transfer gears from a 727 RR in the LT230

Wanna buy some, got a good 1.003:1 case here, yours for 2 box's of Melbourne and 2 of cheap scotch cans

TOL

FWIW I went from the v8 Hiline to - skip the tdi during the 90s - to TD5 MY00 & again in 04.

As someone else wrote, drive both & you'll make a choice straightaway. If they're coming in at the same $$s go the TD5. It will be younger, more refined & more spacious.

In all the time i've owned my ones I can honestly say they never gave me an iota of grief - other than alarm arming in some areas periodically (this issue has been well covered here on this forum & is not a true fault - moreover a frequency clash with Amcals cash registers etc).

All the best in your descision.

Cheers

Originally Posted by rovercare

Wanna buy some, got a good 1.003:1 case here, yours for 2 box's of Melbourne and 2 of cheap scotch cans

you might have yrself a deal!