Thread: Caster question caster was out -2.7

Originally Posted by rovercare

Yep swivel housings, but they're fixed by pins and swivel bearings, may a mix of terminology, but D2's are open to atmosphere, not enclosed in a swivel housing

Like a Cheap I mean Jeep....

First LR copy Jeeps Dana Diff and then they do the stupid thing and copy their front end.

But thats ok, Jeep copied their suspention for their coilers in the front but went 5 link in the rear just so you cant get flex out of them without spending mega bucks.

Jeep bagging over.

Just another reason not to buy a D2 sorry guys, I couldnt resist

Originally Posted by dobbo

yep no balls


It's a chicks car.


It's got a king pin setup

Note you said king pin king pins control chicks of ell repute

Originally Posted by rovercare

I always struggle to read what you type ROVENIT????

The castor is out and its actually -2.7 degrees when it should be +3

Or its out by -2.7 degrees and the figure is actually +0.3

I'm assuming the first by the size of your silly lift

you'll need 5 degree arms, If that's what they make?

Bet it bump steers and tram tracks like a crunt at the moment

Silly Lift well I never, hmmmmmm no not worth biting at

I don't know I asked the guy how much is it out by he said -2.7 now if the measurement is +3 then its out by 6 and I have to wait till feb till a set of radius arms can be made now if it 0 then its out by 3 and I can get a set straight away I wasn't going argue with the guy not knowing what I was talking about actually no it doesn't bump steer all that bad surprisingly however its something that I will address hence the question

Originally Posted by ROVERNIT

Silly Lift well I never, hmmmmmm no not worth biting at

I don't know I asked the guy how much is it out by he said -2.7 now if the measurement is +3 then its out by 6 and I have to wait till feb till a set of radius arms can be made now if it 0 then its out by 3 and I can get a set straight away I wasn't going argue with the guy not knowing what I was talking about actually no it doesn't bump steer all that bad surprisingly however its something that I will address hence the question

Didn't you get a print out?

I haven't followed the whole lift saga so I don't know if you've modded your panhard rod yet, but the panhard rod angle, and the angle of the draglink from the box, is what will tend to induce bump steer once you lift it. With a solid axle, caster & camber won't have much influence toward bump steer, wishbone are of course entirely different.
However if you've got -2.7 caster (as long as it's even) it will drive straight but will handle poorly, tending to understeer quite badly ; as you turn in the -ve caster will induce +camber. Mind you this was normal back in the day, you older blokes remember HQ Holdens & older, pre RTS?
If you have 2.7deg LESS THAN the 3deg specced (ie near to zero) then it will be very wandery (and handle poorly for basically the same reason as above).
But I'm sure you researched most of these issues before you went for an extreme lift.

Originally Posted by 100I

With a solid axle, caster & camber won't have much influence toward bump steer, .

You reckon? when I machined my swivels the difference was amazing

I just put the diff's out of my RR tray in my new hiline, with standard height springs(had to get the diffs out of the shed to extend)....talk anout RTC, with probably near +8 gegrees of castor, must put some higher springs in

Originally Posted by ROVERNIT

Silly Lift well I never, hmmmmmm no not worth biting at

I don't know I asked the guy how much is it out by he said -2.7 now if the measurement is +3 then its out by 6 and I have to wait till feb till a set of radius arms can be made now if it 0 then its out by 3 and I can get a set straight away I wasn't going argue with the guy not knowing what I was talking about actually no it doesn't bump steer all that bad surprisingly however its something that I will address hence the question

Well worth having a bite at, your suspension wil cost you more than I could build you a tuff assed RR classic for........but We want go on about that, you've probably heard it a zillion times before

Go BACK to knuckle at the wheel aligners, and state you'd like the following

A. Current Castor angle

B. Correct/Recommended castor angle

The difference between the 2 will be the correction you need......simple really

Then you'll increase the angle of the front tailshaft Uni joints, but seeing as your going to do the lift at any cost

Damn I dont have that smilie with the pop corn

Originally Posted by mcrover

Damn I dont have that smilie with the pop corn

I steal it from Outerlimits