Salisbury diff center removal

**bobslandies** · 29th December 2007, 04:41 PM

Hi Mark,
The wear will occur in the inner 24 spline of the drive flanges at the hub. It's pretty soft material compared to the hardened differential and axle components. Probably should have been clearer about that. I always carry a couple of spares.
If you are taking the whole assembly out of the vehicle for overhaul you can check it for straightness yourself. Take the hubs, stub axles and backing plates off, make sure you don't mix them side to side when you reassemble - important. Get an assistant to hold a staightedge or clamp it across the end of the casing so it has the same overhang on each side. Now hold or clamp a similar straightedge across the other end of the casing and accurately measure the distance between the straightedges on either end. Keep a note of the measurements. Now move the two straightedges to different locations around the casing (say 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock) and compare the measurements. The distance out from the axle centre accentuates any bend in the casing and it should be apparent.
No bend should be no problem!
Bob

**isuzurover** · 29th December 2007, 09:10 PM

As others have said, spreaders are definitely not needed. All I use is a couple of tyre levers (and only gentle pressure) to remove, and a rubber/leather hammer to refit.

Couldn't be easier.

**sclarke** · 2nd January 2008, 06:21 PM

For the headaches involved.. take it to a Diff place.... its not that dear to have them strip and rebuild it for you...

**rovercare** · 2nd January 2008, 09:27 PM

Originally Posted by sclarke

For the headaches involved.. take it to a Diff place.... its not that dear to have them strip and rebuild it for you...

BS, do it yourself, you know its done right

**Frenchie** · 3rd January 2008, 04:06 PM

Originally Posted by rovercare

BS, do it yourself, you know its done right

Not if I did it.

**rick130** · 4th January 2008, 06:13 AM

Originally Posted by Frenchie

Not if I did it.

but installing a DL in a Sals or any Dana diff is so straight forward if the bearings aren't changed, that anyone with any mechanical competence can do do it.
Big reason why is that there is absolutely no diff setup involved !

All you do is remove the centre (I've only ever used tyre levers, too) drop the diff out, unbolt the case halves (the crown wheel stays on the centre) and remove the centre pinion gears and cross shaft and replace with the No-Spin centre.
Bolt back up and re-instal.

No resetting anything as the crown wheel to pinion relationship isn't disturbed.

**mark2** · 4th January 2008, 10:23 AM

After just having installed the DL, I can verify that it only needs tyre levers to remove and soft hammers to reinstall. Carefull use of the bearing caps and bolts to pull the center into position also worked for me. My bearings were less than 100% ie some visible wear on the hard facing on the cones but I made the decision to reinstall as is - new bearings = major setup issues. I will check them at regular intervals.......

The Detroit is awesome - I dont even know its there on the road.

**rick130** · 4th January 2008, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by mark2

<snip> My bearings were less than 100% ie some visible wear on the hard facing on the cones but I made the decision to reinstall as is - new bearings = major setup issues. I will check them at regular intervals.......

<snip>

how many km and what oil on the rear end Mark ?

**mark2** · 4th January 2008, 11:56 AM

About 260,000km. Normal 80/90 GL5 gear oil since I've had it (Castrol) Am now running 25% Morey's to try and extend bearing life and help with the Detroit.

**rick130** · 4th January 2008, 12:11 PM

or you could use an 75 or 80w/140 fluid too.
A Sals runs a lot hotter than a Rover diff, and when it comes to hypoid gears a heavier weight oil protects better at higher temps. (this advice came to me from a bloke in the US that blends oil)

Thread: Salisbury diff center removal

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