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Thread: rear axle seals (96 130)

  1. 2nd January 2008, 11:16 AM #1
    datifsimp
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    rear axle seals (96 130)

    Just wondering if anyone has ever replaced the rear axle seals on a 130. The LR manual has a few different types most with drum brakes, mine has disc brakes but the picture in the manual (with disc brakes) has a sealed end cap and mine has a rubber cover. The problem started when I was replacing the rear shockys, I noticed the wheel hub was loose, so I tightened it. whilst tightening it i realised the bearing were running in oil, not grease. I left it (after being told some vehicles run there bearings in oil not grease, and as Land rovers are odd this may be the case) and on the weekend after driving about 50 kms notice oil is spraying from the plastic cap.
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  2. 2nd January 2008, 11:51 AM #2
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    abaddonxi
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    Have a look at these two threads:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...l-lubed-5.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-bearings.html

    Sounds likes yours has already been converted to oil lubed.

    Cheers
    Simon
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  3. 2nd January 2008, 12:43 PM #3
    datifsimp
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    Thanks for that i think that may answer my question, I will clean the wheel, check the diff level and see what happens.
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  4. 2nd January 2008, 04:00 PM #4
    sumo
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    Quote Originally Posted by datifsimp View Post
    Just wondering if anyone has ever replaced the rear axle seals on a 130. The LR manual has a few different types most with drum brakes, mine has disc brakes but the picture in the manual (with disc brakes) has a sealed end cap and mine has a rubber cover. The problem started when I was replacing the rear shockys, I noticed the wheel hub was loose, so I tightened it. whilst tightening it i realised the bearing were running in oil, not grease. I left it (after being told some vehicles run there bearings in oil not grease, and as Land rovers are odd this may be the case) and on the weekend after driving about 50 kms notice oil is spraying from the plastic cap.
    mate if the oil seals were removed to let oil into the hub, then the drive hub has to be replaced with the screw on cap Type .The rubber cap is only a dust seal other wise to put it back to standard remove stub axle and replace two bob seal in the back of it.

    Cheers Sumo.
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  5. 3rd January 2008, 02:33 PM #5
    datifsimp
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    I found out why it was leaking, the cap was cracked. but that still means that the seals are either stuffed or removed, therefore I may purchase the screw on caps to stop this problem happenning again. Should I get upgraded axles at the same time or can you buy screw on caps and assosiated hubs with the same spline count as origonal.

    If the seals are bugged and not removed, do I still have to remove them or can I leave them, as the hubs are not getting hot and after checking the bearings I can not see or feel any damage. I am not sure if the seals are there or not as I wasnt looking for them when I first fulled the lot apart.
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  6. 3rd January 2008, 06:50 PM #6
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    abaddonxi
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    Quote Originally Posted by datifsimp View Post
    I found out why it was leaking, the cap was cracked. but that still means that the seals are either stuffed or removed, therefore I may purchase the screw on caps to stop this problem happenning again. Should I get upgraded axles at the same time or can you buy screw on caps and assosiated hubs with the same spline count as origonal.

    If the seals are bugged and not removed, do I still have to remove them or can I leave them, as the hubs are not getting hot and after checking the bearings I can not see or feel any damage. I am not sure if the seals are there or not as I wasnt looking for them when I first fulled the lot apart.
    I have plastic caps in the back and oil-lubed bearings and no problems with leaks, Countys and 110s came with plastic caps and oil-lubed bearings as standard. Buy the better drive member things, 'cos they're great, but it isn't a necessity.

    If the seals are buggered then you want to pull the lot down just in case you get bits of seal caught up in your bearings.

    On the bright side, if it's just oil seals, a couple of gaskets, end caps, bearing lock washers, and some grease, then you could get out of it for about $50 in parts.

    Cheers
    Simon

    EDIT:
    Of course that's never the case, so don't go out buying the new screw on drive members until you know how much other guff you're up for.
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