Thread: Vacuum advance test

Suck the end of the hose and put the tip of your tounge over the end of the pipe to seal it, your tounge should stick to the pipe (vacuum) when you open your mouth. Alternatively, remove the Dissy cap and suck (very hard) on the pipe (hose) and watch the dissy guts to see if it rotates a small amount, if you can get hold of a vacuum pump to test with, it will save you having a puckered up look for a week or two, Regards Frank.

Thanks Frank, looks like it's not holding vacuum. Anyone got any advice on where I can get a new one for a good price? Doesn't really matter where as I will have to get it sent to me. Funny thing that, but there doesn't seem to be any Land Rover parts/service gurus up here in the Kimberley's.

Ok guys, lets go thru this again for the slower ones

After reading the first 2 posts, i went out to Bulldog and sucked on the hose. Nothing .

So let me just check that this is the hose that goes from the dizzy to the manifold between the carbies (suck on the manifold end), right? I am getting nothing at all (no movement in the dizzy and no suction at all. I can't even manually turn the inside of the dizzy...

Mine has an electronic ignition conversion (opto wheel in the dizzy, no points). The advance is still meant to operate isn't it?

Could this explain some of my overheating problems?

$176 for a new replacement Does anyone know of a better price than that?

Originally Posted by TheLowRanger

Thanks Frank, looks like it's not holding vacuum. Anyone got any advice on where I can get a new one for a good price? Doesn't really matter where as I will have to get it sent to me. Funny thing that, but there doesn't seem to be any Land Rover parts/service gurus up here in the Kimberley's.

Hi mate, I got one from rovacraft for $80, Might pay to give Discovery Autos in wanagara a ring too as they are very competitive with there pricing. Takes about 10mins to change but the unit is held in with torx bits if i recall correctly. I "think" they may be slotted so you can use a small flat blade screw driver. A small allen key also works. I would recommend a small drop of loctite medium strenght on the screws to stop them working out.

cheers
Luke

try this thread

Vacuum Advance

Originally Posted by Bulldog

Ok guys, lets go thru this again for the slower ones

After reading the first 2 posts, i went out to Bulldog and sucked on the hose. Nothing .

So let me just check that this is the hose that goes from the dizzy to the manifold between the carbies (suck on the manifold end), right? I am getting nothing at all (no movement in the dizzy and no suction at all. I can't even manually turn the inside of the dizzy...

Mine has an electronic ignition conversion (opto wheel in the dizzy, no points). The advance is still meant to operate isn't it?

Could this explain some of my overheating problems?

$176 for a new replacement Does anyone know of a better price than that?

G`day , Pete

Yep that`s the right pipe .

Pull the cap off and turn/swist the rotor this movement is the mechanical advance , the plate movement is the vacuum advance .

Don`t know your specific ignition being aftermarket , does the amplifier/CDI ? box have a name on it ?
It could be that your type has an electronic advance and so doesn`t use the mech or vac .

Performance ignitions in Nunawadding i think they are called do a change over vacuum unit for around $60 +- and being not too far from you if you drove it in they could advise you about which advances it should use .

Cheers

Originally Posted by PLR

Pull the cap off and turn/swist the rotor this movement is the mechanical advance , the plate movement is the vacuum advance .

Don`t know your specific ignition being aftermarket , does the amplifier/CDI ? box have a name on it ?
It could be that your type has an electronic advance and so doesn`t use the mech or vac .

Thanks PLR,

Whats the mechanical advance? I was under the impression that the advance is set with a timing light and then the vacuum adv adjusts it for RPM differences... Is it a system of weights etc?

The elec ignition box is fairly simple and only connects to the dizzy. It is called "Optospark". However if it was clever, it could get the RPMs from the opto wheel in the dizzy and do the advance that way.

Any ideas? Thanks again and apologies for the thread hijack

Bulldog you say "Whats the mechanical advance?"

If not electronic advance as all but more recent LR's there is actually 3 X types of advance settings and parameters...initial, mechanical and vacuum that generate the total timing at any one time.

Here is good explanation:

Ignition Timing