Replaced head gasket now wont start 300 TDi

that is possable although if everything is done "by the book it shouldnt happen"

theres a simple test for it...

remove all the glowplugs (not required but it makes baring the engine over easier)

line #1 up on top dead center and then crack the injector lines off at the injector unions (dont totally remove them just a couple of turns)

turn the fuel solenoid on and prime the system then bar the engine over by hand. when you see the valves on a clinder go on the rock (both just open together) then that cyl will fire when you complete 1 more full turn of the crank or if you mark and watch the inlet valves when they close your 1/2 a turn of the crank from firing. Firing is indicated by fuel exiting the injector line for that cylinder and should occour a few degrees before you get the crank back to TDC or 180 degrees off.

If your not getting anything out of the injector lines double check the fuel cut out and then reprime. Once youve got the filter draining clean bubbleless fuel leave the glow plugs out and keeping everyone well clear of the injectors and glowplug holes crank the engine over on the starter to get the lines to the injectors bled out.

Once youve got the injector lines beld out double check them for firing on the right pot at the right time and then tighten everything up, install the glow plugs and give it a kick.

So long as youre valve timing is on or 180degrees out you will then be able to get it to go. (if its 180 degrees out mark the injector housing pull the injector pump out, turn the shaft 180 degrees and reassemble if your not in the mood to pull the front off of the engine again)

somewhere in there lies the answer.

if you have only had the head off you should only need to bolt it back together adjust valve clearance bleed the fuel system and start it up nothing else should be out

I am in Mackay Qld, is there anyone who can get to my place and help, i am willing to pay or is that not what we do on the forum???
rgs Les

i would no worrys but its a bit of a treck

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Originally Posted by kangoloo

I am in Mackay Qld, is there anyone who can get to my place and help, i am willing to pay or is that not what we do on the forum???
rgs Les

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nope we do that

but your a bit far from most of us...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kangoloo

still trying to fathom the information, i have not as yet located the notch in the pulley as yet, is it the drive pulley below or is it up high?
Can anyone advise how to get the fan off, the allen keys i have dont seem to have enough room to get in and i have the long shanke type with smaller head.

rgs Les

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NOT THE PULLEY/HARMONIC BALANCER.

The timing mark/slot is on the FLYWHEEL

crawl underneath the car and you'll see a threaded hole in the bellhousing. Shine a light in there and turn the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley and you'll see a slot appear, eventually.
Be careful, as I said in the above post there are two slots. This is your TDC timing mark.
Make a tool as I described above, or if you are careful, just keep checking this 5mm slot is dead centre of the bellhousing hole as you work.
When this slot is in the centre of the hole as I've described, there is a hole that lines up in the back of the timing case with the fuel pump drive pulley. This is why it is advisable to lock the flywheel in position so that things don't move.
If you haven't already found this, it is behind an access cover in the timing case.
In air-conditioned vehicles, it is the a/c tensioner pulley, which must be removed to access the timing holes.

When the engine is at TDC, a pin slots through the pump drive pulley into a hole behind. The size of the pin/rod used is fairly critical, as a touch too small results in a slight amount of retarded timing, but the vehicle will still start.
If your pin doesn't slide all the way in easily, the pump pulley bolts need loosening (10mm hex, use a 6 point socket and be careful, it is easy to round these off) and the pulley moved slightly until the pin goes all the way home.

I use a drill shank, and IIRC it is the shank of a 10mm masonry bit, so the hole is a bit smaller than 10mm, approx 9.5mm.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on the bit size, it's been two years since I've played with the pump timing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 460cixy

if you have only had the head off you should only need to bolt it back together adjust valve clearance bleed the fuel system and start it up nothing else should be out

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I agree. The timing should be fine. Even with loose valve clearances, it should run. If the valves have no tappet clearance they won't close and it won't run. I think it is most likely a fuel system problem - ie not bled.

While this isn't the way I do them (I prefer the 1 rocking, set 4 etc method), this video shows a quick way to set the valve clearances. It's being demonstrated on an MG engine, but the procedure is exactly the same for the 300Tdi (and most other 4cyl pushrod engines).

YouTube - MG Valve Adjustment

Hope this helps as I too am a bit far away to call in ;)

sorry thats my bad...

I line it all up once then I hand mark the front pully when I do this stuff...

Hi all,
I got it going thankyou.
Next scenario is it is running rough and white smoke emmitting from the exhaust, when i bleed the injectors it labours noticably on 3 & 4 and not so much on 1 & 2, a freind who is a diesel fitter said it is possibly unburnt diesel from the front 2 cylinders, any other ideas or can you confirm the unburnt diesel.

rgs Les:D

so what was it? bad bleed, valves not closing?


If it was a valve problem read on. if not skip this paragraph

how many times did you try to crank it over before it fired up. IF it was injecting but not firing on a couple of cylinders there will be a fair bit of fuel in the pot that will need to be burnt off/exhausted out of the cylinder. That usualy doesnt take more than a minute or 2. you might also have a build up of fuel in the exhaust.

Assuming that it wasnt a valve problem but a fuel supply problem then its the pots in question not getting enough compression to fire off the fuel.

to prove which pots put a spanner on the injector line nut on the injector wrap a rag around it and with the engine running crack the nut and let the fuel out there, when it stops blowing whiteish smoke thats the culprit pot.

double check the vavle clearances to begin with.

White smoke is also symptomatic of late injection but it should clear up if you can give it a rev. Dont try revving it up unil you are certain that theres nothing thats going to go metal to metal that might get damaged.