Wizard
Hi Guys
just drove home and noticed the Disco II TD5 was a bit lumpy accelerating. just nothing and then everything a second or so later.. so been playing all the way back and something is wrong...
if i drive carefully (ie accelerate at slow rate so turbo can spool up) then all is good.. if i hit the loud pedal fast (at around 2000rpm) then you can feel the engine trying and a second or 2 later bang... loud pedal kicks in and a cloud of soot comes out the back... and you get thrown back into the seat... its as tho something is stopping the turbo from spinning up properly..
any ideas? stuck wastegate, collapsed (or nearly) intercooler hoses, blocked airfilter?
by the way its got one of tombraiders programs running and has been impecably for about 9 months..
thanks
Steve
Swaggie
I noticed this with mine recently and it turned out to be a blown MAF sensor fuse (under the bonnet, 2nd blade fuse from the front). The wiring runs under the engine cover from the passengers side and the split tube had perished that covers it which resulted in a short. When split tube was replaced and the fuse replaced also it seemed to fix the massive lag problem.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Agree with Slunnie...
OR...
Split modulator hose
Jammed wastegate (slightly open)
Failed MAF
OR, the common one...
The plug on the MAF has come away or not making contact on each pin correctly.
Hi All
It could be the hoses from the turbo being sucked in and not getting enough air through.
Regards
Doug
Master
or it could be crap diesel same as we get here quite often
Wizard
Hi guys
just taken it on a short run and its gone... inlet hose into the intercooler is soft asso im wondering if when heated it is collapsing..
i'll check the rest of the stuff... thanks guys.. probably tomorrow..
how do i know if the wastegate is stuck?
thanks
Steve
RoverLord
to check the waste gate unhook the pipe that goes to it and using a regulator on an air compressor wind up the pressure till its fully open. pop the airline on and off a few time rapidly and eyeball it for any irregulat motion or increase in motion.
Thats only a field check and not overly accurate if its being held open by carbon build up on the valve face or a bent/distorted shaft.
it can also be the EGR system not closing up properly for some reason and then closing or if you have the butterfly EGR (im not sure when they started that lark) the butterfly might be lagging till you get enough boost to snap it open.
Last edited by Blknight.aus; 18th January 2008 at 08:35 PM.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
OldBushie
ive been having the same problem but i put it down to bad fuel i picked up in albury last weekend......
i then added more fuel.....proper stuff not bio........and it made a huge difference......
however....as its still got some of the bad fuel mixed in with the good stuff.......im hoping its gonna get better when i have to refill this weekend......
the symptoms im suffering are the same as what you described in the original post.......
but im also suspecting my egr valve.........
as for the intercooler hoses collapsing........arent they under pressure when on boost.......
or are we talking about collapsing before boost kicks in.......
Swaggie
The hoses delaminate and the inside layer splits and flaps under pressure whilst looking OK from the outside.Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
RoverLord
typically they dont go wrong till they go soft and then they have 2 maybe 3, depedning on your take on the failure, methods of failure
the first is when the heat delaminates the hose and turns it into a kind of flap valve. This can go away when the flap folds over or when you back off and go again as the flap opens up and stays clear. Once this one starts happening its just going to get worse
the second is when the hose collapes from the engine trying to draw more air than the turbo can deliver so the external atmospheric pressure crushes the pipe, when the fuel supply backs off the pressure differential changes the pipe opens and if your lucky stays open once the turbo spools up and boost pressure keeps it open. the other side of this is at boost they bulge and begin to leak a little before splitting so if you get a hose split and the problem goes away when you replace it this was the culprit
and the 3rd one IS when the insides delaminate like shrapnel and slowly fill the intercooler with rubber bits which block off the cross pipes slowing the initial airflow till the turbo gets itself sorted... This one is usually there all the time and can occasionally be identified by the wastegate being fully open even tho the MAP is indicating less than max pressure in the manifold.
pulling your EGR valve out and having a look at it will let you identify if the EGR is clagged and might also have some bits of rubber in it from the intake side of the intercoolers hose.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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