Two things dudes
1 lr recommend both slave and master be changed together
2 make sure that the pedal is correctly adjusted as city driving can cause the clutch to slip if the fluid cant release fully same as if your riding the clutch
aparently the county is easier to change than the fender........
especially the Td5 ones.....i havent changed one yet so i cant confirm this......
but i will be changing mine soon......its leaking as well........
this ones has lasted the longest.......first one was changed at 20,000kms.....
the next at 40,000kms..........and the odometer now reads just over 100,000kms.......
i have a spare sitting at home im going to get a stainless steel sleeve put in.......
then i will use that.......it should last longer than all the others put together.........
and a stainless steel sleeve seems to be the solution for the clutch master on the fenders..........
Two things dudes
1 lr recommend both slave and master be changed together
2 make sure that the pedal is correctly adjusted as city driving can cause the clutch to slip if the fluid cant release fully same as if your riding the clutch
I guess I did well then - mine just gave up at 120Ks.
This also got me thinking about something else - spares for trips...
I carry only basic spares on trips such as belts and hoses and a full set of filters. for $200 - perhaps this would make a good spare to carry - not that much more than a set of spare hoses...
what do other carry?
I hate to tell you this, but unless the TD5 is different (and I don't think it is) the cylinder is the same as used on most hydraulic override brake trailers - and can be bought for around $50 at any trailer supply place.
On trips of any distance I carry master and slave cylinders (and of course fluid and bleeder) but have only once replaced one away from home.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks John - ummm - yes I guess it must be the same, as the box read "brake master cylinder", which I questioned, and he told me it was a universal part, and could be used as the clutch master cylinder for the TD5. I paid $220. But still good to know that I can get em for $50 - I am off for a spare today!
The only thing I'll add is that in my experience, the the master & slave quite often go in pairs...
Dunno why but I can only guess at the seals perishing at the same rate.
M
confirmed the td5 one is a mite harder to change than all the previous ones but not by much... If youve preground + bent a set of spanners to fit earlier pedal boxes and own a 7.5 degree 1/4 inch ratchet set your laughing all you need to do is grind a tad more off of your preground spanners.
When you purhcase your master cylinders make sure they have the fitting for the clutch sensor on them its legal to have it missing if you dont have cruise control and illigal to have it missing if you do.
if your going to stainless sleeve the master do the slave at the same time and flush out the pipe work while thats happening.
Best of luck to you all.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
You would think that in 60 years of Land-rover production they could have come up with a better design... (i.e. easier to change).
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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