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Thread: 300 tdi engine water leak

  1. #1
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    300 tdi engine water leak

    Hi Guys,

    I looked at a 300tdi 110 last night which had a water leak coming from the N/S front corner of the engine. Is this likely to be the water pump gasket? or is there any chance it could be the headgasket.

    The owner has put some leak stop in it and it hasnt been run out of water.

    Cheers
    Pete

  2. #2
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    On mine a leak started there at just under 100,000 km. Took some careful looking to detemine that the water pump seal has failed, even though there was no play in the bearing. The pump is basically a throwaway part. You would need to be innovative to instal some sort of replacement seal and it would probably only be worth attempting if the vehicle urgently needed to be run before a replacement was available.

  3. #3
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    Sounds like water pump. Mine was replaced at 100,000 km and one of the mounting bolts had rusted badly and broke off - PIA to get out.

    While you're buying the car suggest you get a low coolant level alarm from EngineSaver and fit that to your radiator top hose.
    Last edited by waynep; 7th February 2008 at 10:08 AM.

  4. #4
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    BWOA, when replacing the water pump, ensure that the "P" gasket behind it is also replaced

  5. #5
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    Two points maybe slightly off topic. I obtained a replacement from a specialist Land Rover mechanic who also sells some spare parts. He commented to the effect that the original pumps at least were not very reliable. The one he supplied, QH brand looked as if it was made by a different manufacturer than the original. Any comments on relative reliability of different makes of 300TDI water pumps?

    The other comment is re the regular suggestion that a water level monitor should be installed. The main point of the exercise is to stop the motor before it gets hot enough to damage itself. I have a temperature sensitive switch on the head {Cost approx $40) which opens the circuit when the temperature gets to 105 degrees and the wire to the fuel solenoid in the injector pump first goes through it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mox View Post
    Two points maybe slightly off topic. I obtained a replacement from a specialist Land Rover mechanic who also sells some spare parts. He commented to the effect that the original pumps at least were not very reliable. The one he supplied, QH brand looked as if it was made by a different manufacturer than the original. Any comments on relative reliability of different makes of 300TDI water pumps?

    The other comment is re the regular suggestion that a water level monitor should be installed. The main point of the exercise is to stop the motor before it gets hot enough to damage itself. I have a temperature sensitive switch on the head {Cost approx $40) which opens the circuit when the temperature gets to 105 degrees and the wire to the fuel solenoid in the injector pump first goes through it.
    I think it is still better to detect the drop of coolant somewhere high in the system (mine has a float in the recovery tank) before the engine even gets to the overheating stage.
    There is a chance that by the time the temp sensor has cut your solenoid the engine is already partially dry, and air superheats more than AFB so you get hot spots and that's when metal bits warp...
    Also when the engine stops (now beyond your control) Murphy says it will without a doubt be somewhere most inconvenient.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I looked at a 300tdi 110 last night which had a water leak coming from the N/S front corner of the engine. Is this likely to be the water pump gasket? or is there any chance it could be the headgasket.

    The owner has put some leak stop in it and it hasnt been run out of water.

    Cheers
    Pete

    Iwould say its the Pgasket, the gasket behind the housing which the water pump is mounted to, the front bearing usually squeals and starts to collapse before the seal leaks on a 300tdi pump.


    Cheers Sumo

  8. #8
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    My pump failed before it leaked.... bearing failure.

    Replace the pump if your unsure, they are not that dear. $200 for memory.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclarke View Post
    My pump failed before it leaked.... bearing failure.

    Replace the pump if your unsure, they are not that dear. $200 for memory.
    So did mine at about 120k.
    Absolutely no sign of a leak and the bearing collapsed in a big way.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100I View Post
    I think it is still better to detect the drop of coolant somewhere high in the system (mine has a float in the recovery tank) before the engine even gets to the overheating stage.
    There is a chance that by the time the temp sensor has cut your solenoid the engine is already partially dry, and air superheats more than AFB so you get hot spots and that's when metal bits warp...
    Also when the engine stops (now beyond your control) Murphy says it will without a doubt be somewhere most inconvenient.
    The situation described could probably only occur if there was a rapid loss of water. Also, I have seem motors stop when getting hot before any water loss occurs - then the radiator cap often blows.

    A problem with some setups to monitor engine overheating is that if the unit itself malfunctions, it may not give a warning or stop the motor. The temperature switch arrangement is relatively simple and fail safe.

    It is a good idea to have a push button override which can be held down eg to drive vehicle off the road if switch opens. A bit hotter than 105 degrees is unlikely to damage a head. An override and /or a time delay is also essential if an oil pressure switch is also incorporated into the circuit. It needs to be bypassed when starting until oil pressure builds up to 10 psi or whatever it it closes at.

    Usually if the temperature sensitive switch opens and stops the motor and you do enough to cure the problem, even just run motor with light or no load if overheating was caused by say a combination of heavy load and partially blocked radiator, the water temperature may drop back very quickly. However it takes much longer for the head around the switch to drop back below 105 degrees unless you carefully pour a bit of water around it.

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