Wheel studs

**roverrescue** · 11th February 2008, 10:39 PM

true, from memory it was a fair whack, but then surely a stud that is weakened still holds a wheel on better than no stud at all???

Im still wondering why it breaks the LR rule book to renew wheel studs??? GC once sheared off a wheel stud when doing some work on ,my diff... they just replaced em?

Ever since keeping my wheel studs lubed just a little ive never had any more shearing problems??? and never had them loosen either?

Steve

**JDNSW** · 12th February 2008, 06:13 AM

Originally Posted by roverrescue

if you happen to break a stud out bush, and you happen to have a spare stud, with a file you could chamfer the shoulder and squeeze the stud in between the hub and disc, then pull it home with the nut. A bit quicker and less messy than removing the entire hub assembly. I had a spate of sheared studs on the old disco, something like 4 on the cape/gulf roads over two trips... i keep a few spares in the parts box. but having said that ive driven the disco on 4 studs on one wheel for quite a distance before replacing???? I just bought the studs and nuts from a lr parts dealer?
Steve

I have never had a wheel stud problem with a press in Landrover stud - the older (pre-1970) screw in studs quite commonly came out if the nut was not free on the thread. Normal care for any vehicle includes ensuring the wheel studs are lubricated and kept clean - after all you might have a flat some day, and out in the bush, or even by a highway, is no place to find out you can't undo one.

On the other hand, when I was working in the Simpson in the sixties using Landcruisers, we always carried a handful of studs in the glovebox! The Landrover studs are thicker than almost any others and also have a greater Pitch Circle Diameter than most other cars or four wheel drives.

John

**abaddonxi** · 12th February 2008, 07:27 AM

PM sent.

Cheers
Simon

**wovenrovings** · 12th February 2008, 08:03 AM

Thanks for that everyone. Sounds like it is worth a try. After all i can only damage the otherwise useless hub.

Cheers
WR.

**wovenrovings** · 12th February 2008, 09:41 AM

Just had a thought, as this problem is on a rear wheel with drum brakes. What is the difference with the stud? If any, it would be longer?

Cheers
WR.

**rick130** · 12th February 2008, 10:28 AM

I've replaced lots of studs over the years, just as Dave describes it, just not on the Defender.

Actually details how to do it in the '96-'97MY manual, section 74/6

**CraigE** · 12th February 2008, 11:42 AM

I understand Johsn point of view and this is what is stated.
But I agree with Dave, they are a little time consuming to do but straight forward, I have done them on a RRC and Defender. They are pressed in from factory, but can also be belted in in an emergency. I would pull them apart and take to someone with a press to push in or out.

**rick130** · 12th February 2008, 12:30 PM

Originally Posted by CraigE

I understand Johsn point of view and this is what is stated.<snip>

in the Genuine Land Rover manual for the '96-'97 MY it states how to change the studs. Section 74/6

**Blknight.aus** · 12th February 2008, 07:29 PM

if you are very very lucky you will find that after removing the drum you can find a spot where you can beat the stud out without having to remove the hub (or the shoes. its worth trying to do this before you pull the whole thing down as the worst thing that can happen is that you will find that you cant do it and the hub will no longer rotate till you pull it off to get the stud clear... Since you have to pull the hub off anyway its not a loss and you dont have tofind anything big and heavy to secure the hub to before tickling it with the hammer.

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