Thread: HELP pleeeeese ..Disco2 ignition lock stuck

The return spring may have broke ( happened to me 2 weeks ago ) but you will need to pull the lock apart to get to it but your Disco is fairly new so I dought it could be this

Adam

Same thing happened to Mrs Rayngie's Flandie, after a couple of hours it 'released', and the key went back in no prob's, started up fine, ended up needing a whole new key barrel thingamajig...

look through this ;

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/...isco-01-a.html

Hey, thanks for the prompt replies. This Forum is really great in giving direction to your own problem solving...Thanks heaps.
Thanks also waynep. I must have missed that thread in my search prior to posting.

I spoke to a LR Dealer who indicated that it would most probably be a stuffed barrel and would need major attention via the shearbolts etc. Then I phoned a locksmith and he suggested the use of a BFH ( where B=big and H=hammer!)

So a gentle/mild tap on the entry end of the cylinder with a ball-peen hammer was enough to loosen the (now graphite saturated) followers/wafers. On refitting the key, the springs pushed them into line with the key cut-outs and allowed the "shear-line" to line up and the barrel /cyl to rotate.

Eureka!!!! I was able to start the car and get it home. Of course it now operates normally!

He also said you could tap on the end of the key whilst it was fitted...but be careful of the plastic case and electronics inside....so I chose the first option.

Locksmith says that at the front of the barrel , where the key enters, is a spring-loaded ball bearing and the force needed for the keyto enter the barrel often results in the bending of the first couple of spring-loaded key wafers next in line....and as a result they do not slide up and down to release the shear-line. Basically wear and tear.
However the Disco has only just clicked over 100K

An on-site rebuild will cost about $200-$250 and same key etc will remain.

Hope this info helps someone else

Cheers Bob

Thanks for the feedback on this Bob. I've got a friend who has a similar, intermittent, problem at the moment. Also good info for future reference.

Cheers ............ BM

This happened to me and I was able to get home by removing the plastic shrouding around the steering column, then with a hammer and oldscrew driver turn the special bolt which holds the whole ignition and lock assembly to the column. With this done the wheel can be turned without the steering locking. Then a couple of screws let you take the electical switch assembly off the back of the key barrel assembly. Once this is off a wide screwdriver can turn the electrical switch and start the vehicle. I left the key in the now separate barrel assembly because I believe it needs to communicate with a coil looking thing to allow you to drive.
few days later with lube and playing around the barrel righted itself and I was able to put it all back together without too much butchering on the special headed bolt which holds the steering lock on.
All up it takes a careful 15 minutes or so to get going and is easier than walking home. In my case I was stranded in the loading bay at my work and the prospect of having the Discovery moved by forklift would have been too humiliating!!!
Hartley

Originally Posted by discodancer

Hey, thanks for the prompt replies. This Forum is really great in giving direction to your own problem solving...Thanks heaps.
Thanks also waynep. I must have missed that thread in my search prior to posting.

I spoke to a LR Dealer who indicated that it would most probably be a stuffed barrel and would need major attention via the shearbolts etc. Then I phoned a locksmith and he suggested the use of a BFH ( where B=big and H=hammer!)

So a gentle/mild tap on the entry end of the cylinder with a ball-peen hammer was enough to loosen the (now graphite saturated) followers/wafers. On refitting the key, the springs pushed them into line with the key cut-outs and allowed the "shear-line" to line up and the barrel /cyl to rotate.

Eureka!!!! I was able to start the car and get it home. Of course it now operates normally!

He also said you could tap on the end of the key whilst it was fitted...but be careful of the plastic case and electronics inside....so I chose the first option.

Locksmith says that at the front of the barrel , where the key enters, is a spring-loaded ball bearing and the force needed for the keyto enter the barrel often results in the bending of the first couple of spring-loaded key wafers next in line....and as a result they do not slide up and down to release the shear-line. Basically wear and tear.
However the Disco has only just clicked over 100K

An on-site rebuild will cost about $200-$250 and same key etc will remain.

Hope this info helps someone else

Cheers Bob

Glad to see its up and running Bob,,


so its a case of "key entry force" damaging the internals,,,

considering the number of D2's on the forum, this is pretty rare--

nice to know landrove still being vehicles capable of being repaired and made oeprational with simple set of tools like a hammer bang bang work you bastard