300tdi oil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tank

False economy to do what Waynep says "change oil every 5000klms and Filter every 10000klms".
The filter picks up most of the carbon and crap floating around in your oil and when you put in New oil the Old filter with all the crap in it contaminates your New oil, it's like having a shower with a raincoat on, it doesn't work.
Replace your filter every time you replace your oil, Regards Frank.

---

the filter actually picks up bugger all. A by-pass filter does something, but a full flow filter only picks up the bits after a component failure.
Soot is in the sub-micron range. The only way to remove it, other than replace the oil, is use a centrifuge as fitted to the TD5
The OE Tdi filter also only holds around 2-300ml of oil.

FWIW, Toyota and Nissan have also had this as standard service procedure for years in their diesels and they last a very long time.

BTW, ever thought about all the oil left in the oil cooler lines and cooler that can't drain out during an oil change ?? ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

the filter actually picks up bugger all. A by-pass filter does something, but a full flow filter only picks up the bits after a component failure.
Soot is in the sub-micron range. The only way to remove it, other than replace the oil, is use a centrifuge as fitted to the TD5
The OE Tdi filter also only holds around 2-300ml of oil.

FWIW, Toyota and Nissan have also had this as standard service procedure for years in their diesels and they last a very long time.

BTW, ever thought about all the oil left in the oil cooler lines and cooler that can't drain out during an oil change ?? ;)

---

Go for it then, it's your motor, Regards Frank.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 5teve

but surely if the filter has filtered it then how can it get back into the system unless you run the oil in reverse? i dont see the logic there... plus the cetrifugal takes most out too doesnt it? (if the 300tdi has one)

i seem to remember a post on here about the oil filter getting more effective the older it gets (up to point!)

Thanks

Steve

---

Well then why change the filter at all, read the Factory service manual, if you want to save a couple of bucks, go for it, Regards Frank.

was just trying to apply my warped logic to it.. not argue.. :)

the TD5 i beleive for the factory service has the cetrifuge replaced every 20k k's and the cartridge every 60k k's i think.. something like that anyway.. (as i have a crap memory! :D ) but i dont think anyone leaves it to this anyway!

Thanks

Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tank

Go for it then, it's your motor, Regards Frank.

---

:lol2: getting a bit testy there Frank. :D

Sorry din't mean to start an argument ...
the main reason I don't change the filter every 5000k is because I do that myself - I find the 300TDI filter a pain to change. I leave it to my mech. to do that every 10,000k. But surely renewing 80% of the oil has got to be doing some good ?

Anyway I notice this advertised in the latest 4WD Vic magazine ...might even consider going synthetic if this does all it claims.....

Red Line Oils Australia - Redline Motor & Gear Oil, Race Oils, Auto Transmission Fluid, Hydraulic Oils, WaterWetter, Fuel Additives, 2 & 4 Stroke Oils, Suspension Fluids, Fleet Products, Diesel Additives

manual says 10,000km oil and filter change, so there is absolutely no harm changing the oil at 5,000km and the filter at 10,000km.
Yes, there will be some contamination by the oil remaining in the filter can, but it will be diluted by over 6 litres of fresh stuff. As I said above, exactly the same thing happens when changing the oil and filter together thanks to the oil in the cooler. This is why the oil appears to discolour so quickly in a Tdi.

I couldn't be bothered changing the oil that frequently, just not required in my circumstances, and out of habit change the (expensive Donaldson) filter with the oil, but have done numerous services on Japanese diesels that call out the practice of changing the filters every 10k, oil every 5k. It's in their service manuals.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by waynep

<snip>
Anyway I notice this advertised in the latest 4WD Vic magazine ...might even consider going synthetic if this does all it claims.....

Red Line Oils Australia - Redline Motor & Gear Oil, Race Oils, Auto Transmission Fluid, Hydraulic Oils, WaterWetter, Fuel Additives, 2 & 4 Stroke Oils, Suspension Fluids, Fleet Products, Diesel Additives

---

Redline make some good lubes, but their engine oil isn't worth the $'s asked in Oz IMO.
There is as good/better for 1/3 $'s

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

:lol2: getting a bit testy there Frank. :D

---

No mate, not at all just that in 30 years+ of mechanicing, I have never changed oil without changing the filter, no dealer or factory service bulletin I have seen has ever said not to change the filter when changing oil. If you dont think oil filters pick up particles of soot and metal. just cut one open and wash out the gunk and see. A filter will go into bypass when it can no longer filter the oil, when the pressure builds up in a blocked filter it by passes the filter medium. When I had my last truck (Mack) I used to run mineral oil and change it every 5000klms, which was once a week, 3 oil filters and 60 litres of oil, big bucks. I changed over to full Synthetic and stretched this out to 12000klms, big bucks saving. I would suggest anyone wanting the best out of their motors should be using Synthetic, best thing since sliced bread. Regards Frank.

Wouldn't a better approach be to sample the oil and find out what's actually happening?