Thread: D1 Transfer box problems

The front propshaft uni joints are supposed to be out of phase like yours were before you set it up wrong .

You only run uni joints at 90 degrees to each other if the transfer output and diff pinion are parallel to each other. If you look under your Land Rover, you will see that the diff pinion actually points upwards at the transfer case. That is the reason for the "misalignment" of the uni joints.

As far as a rebuild kit for the transfer case goes, I am not sure what is available aftermarket. I work at a Dealer and we use genuine parts, all available individually, not in a kit form.

No big deal: It's not all the propshafts fault.

1. TC seals and bearings - can be done in situ,
look here: (Edit: Use a inside track bearing remover, what I did is a bit rough)

LT230 Output bearings & Oil seals:

2. Further to Big J's comment about how the propshaft is set up - it helps when under load and compression if the yokes are out-of-phase. If the plastic on the splines is worn off or damaged another propshaft is needed - the plastic coating is integral to the design.

3. Time to check and adjust the swivel bearing preload. Thats another source of vibration at speed.

4. Get the tyres checked for out-of-round. If the shocks are had-it, they will cause the tyres to become distorted. Experience is a wonderful thing.

5. Think about a new set of uni joints - easy to replace.

My Disco has 330K on it and is smooth as silk at 130 without a steering damper. It did exactly the same things you describe, but after some bearings, a look at the swivel bearing preload, new shocks and a two new tyres it was good as gold.

As to rebuilding the TC- it probably already has been done. If it does not whine or leak leave it alone. Check or change the oil if you want.

Get yourself a workshop manual. Best to buy a RAVE disk from the forum. Sometimes the LR engineers do things that are a little weird.

recently i had a gearbox [auto ] repair, did up my transfer box, and some diff problems, then i chased a vibration , even to re setting up both diffs with no change, eventually replaced the rear driveshaft doughnut, no vibrations now.

There are no gaskets for this model LT230 TF case, they were assembled with a Sikaflex type compound from the factory. Fitting gaskets as per early LT230 will increase bearing clearances and reduce any preloads, thereby causing backlash, noises etc.

JC

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I will be putting the shaft back the way i found it asap. I understand that this setup is different, but dont understand fully how they work out what angle to set the uni yokes apart. In a setup like this, ideally, it should have CV joints instead of unis shouldnt it? Two unis in a row should have the two outer shafts parallel for it to be smooth at all.

Anyway, Langy says I need a new shaft because the spline coating is buggered, fair enough. But can i just buy the male part and not the whole lot. The Fourwheeldrives mob in melb sells them either way. They also sell gasket and seal kits. are the gaskets for a different model box?

My shocks are new Billies, other pivot bushes might need attention but seem fine now, wheels could do with another balance i guess.
The Box is leaking out the front output, and the bearings is indeed loose. I can shake it up and down with my hand. I will need to fix that. Is it likely to be the bearing buggered or the housing flogged out and need to be sleeved (I could machine and sleeve it)?
Cheers again.

Originally Posted by sich nich

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I will be putting the shaft back the way i found it asap. I understand that this setup is different, but dont understand fully how they work out what angle to set the uni yokes apart. In a setup like this, ideally, it should have CV joints instead of unis shouldnt it? Two unis in a row should have the two outer shafts parallel for it to be smooth at all.

Anyway, Langy says I need a new shaft because the spline coating is buggered, fair enough. But can i just buy the male part and not the whole lot. The Fourwheeldrives mob in melb sells them either way. They also sell gasket and seal kits. are the gaskets for a different model box?

My shocks are new Billies, other pivot bushes might need attention but seem fine now, wheels could do with another balance i guess.
The Box is leaking out the front output, and the bearings is indeed loose. I can shake it up and down with my hand. I will need to fix that. Is it likely to be the bearing buggered or the housing flogged out and need to be sleeved (I could machine and sleeve it)?
Cheers again.

Just buy a whole shaft, and my advice is to give British4X4 a call about the shaft $$$, at least you will be getting a good quality one...
Yes, the early LT230's had gaskets, but they were back around 1984/85 on RRC and 110 county. These required gaskets, not your model case though.
I actually have bought these gasket kits in the past, as you get all the seals, and sometimes it works out cheaper to buy a kit with the gaskets etc to get the seals for a good $$$.
The frontoutput brg has play in it from new, not much but some. It has a high radial clearance, hence the feeling of looseness. You can get them out easily, but put the TF case in difflock first, as it helps when refitting the output shaft back in...lining up the splines etc on the locking sleeve is impossible otherwise.

JC