isnt that when you are supposed to "left foot brake" allowing the TC to shift power across the axel?
Another consideration is tyre pressure....what were you running at? I generally ran my 32" BFG Muds at 18 for any off road work and this seemed a reasonable pressure for rock ledges, and rougher stuff. As said before, wheel base has a huge part to play also.
isnt that when you are supposed to "left foot brake" allowing the TC to shift power across the axel?
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Without being there in person, I'd also errr on the side of the difference in wheelbase length. It all comes back to the Traction vs Momentum formula... i.e. If you haven't got the traction (cross axled) you're gonna need more momentum.
However, I'd also go with the suggestion of running at a lower pressure to tip the balance more in your favour.
M
Its to do with wheelbase.
In the 2000 Nissan Trials no Rangie or Disco could go up the "Stairway to Heaven", as the sleepers were 100inches apart. Nissans , Toyotas etc all had no problem, just cars with 100Inch wheelbase, as both front and back wheels hit a sleeper at the same time.
I also came across this at Yalwal, where we all had trouble and a Nissan walked up.
Don't worry , just be happy that step distances are random, and somewhere there is a 108 or whatever a Nissan is.
Momentum is your friend, but momentum in these circumstances can mean broken bits or bent rear trailing arms ( on an RRC) . Ask me how I know.
Regards Philip A
Having just sold my GU in favour of a D2 I can say the main difference is two things. Wheelbase for starters, the extra length makes cross axle lift less of an issue than a shorter wheelbase. Second thing and most noticable, the Patrol has to have the best stock LSD going!!! Whenever the Patrol lifted a front wheel, the LSD cut in and walked. Almost as good as a locker. So, don't feel bad, just get a locker!
Howdy,
Read this thread with interest though I dont think the initial question was answered and I hope it can be. I have just spent 7 days in the Vic High Country and encountered the cross axling issue. Mine is a 01 manual TD5 with CDL actuated and 2" OME lift. There were a couple of times when I was getting wheel spin front and rear (diagonal) particularly trying to climb damp not wet rocks. I thought the TC would kick in and stop the wheels spinning. Tried at low revs Low1 and 2 and higher revs (2,500) Low 1 & 2 but no joy. Bit embarrassing with 2 Patrols and an 85 pajero that all had no trouble particularly in one situation on the way home through Mt Avoca they all had road pressures in their tyres and I had to pressure down to get through. Even with pressures down to 18 psi had wheel spin. There is probably a simple answer and am keen to hear it.
Cheers
DaveF
01 S2 TD5 Manual, CDL Actuated, Snorkelled and 2" lifted.
I know this is an old thread but thought I'd answer anyway.
Have faith in the traction control. It's hard to get used to it after older systems. Just sit there with the wheel in the air spinning. The traction control will work and brake the spinning wheel. It just wont happen instantly. Better it doens't anyway as that might snap an axle.
Happy Days
Sounds like his TC wasn't operating as it should have.
Lots of tips in this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1493808
TC of course doesn't work as well with bigger tyres as braking effort is reduced.
Cheers
Simon
2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.
This may be a foolish question, but were the ABS/Traction control dash lights on? Reason I ask is- I fitted the CDL kit to my D2, one with the separate lever for CDL operation. With the kit came this - " If the engine is switched off and restarted while the diff lock is engaged, the traction control will no longer operate " and- " please note if the traction control /ABS has been disabled while in diff lock, the engine will need to be switched off and restarted to enable normal ABS operation." [ after disengaging diff lock] Don't know if it is only with this type of diff lock lever set up, but that is exactly what happens with mine. Bob
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