Thread: Loctite, which ones, where

Ok Ive promised this one a few times so here it is,

these are my 6 goto loctites for landrovers theres some others that you might need but unless your doing stuff like repressing the races of your swivel housings or pressings speedy sleves into gearbox selctor shaft holes you wont need them.

some generic things about loctite. It works better with smaller tolerances and smaller bolts so for the equivelent amount of "stick" you might use 242 on a small bolt but 262 on a larger one. the same goes for the flange sealants and gasket makers the tighter the tolerance the better it works.

the same principal applies for thread pitches a fine thread with 242 can provide just as much holding as a coarser thread with 262, using 262 on a fine enough pitch will be about the same as welding it in place.

you only need a drop, 3-4 threads covered on one half of the bolt is all it takes, dont paint the whole thing unless you never want to move that bolt again.

Dont spin it in with a rattle gun, centrifical force will fling the loctite all over your work area leaving none on the bolt.

remember most of this stuff is an anerobic liquid so you need some space in the bottle to keep it liquid any spills will make a sticky mess and you must store the bottle upright if it falls over and it gets between the nozzle and the cap it will set there. All of them have a set up time which typically is about 15 minutes, once you put the bolt in you have 15 minutes to get it done and dusted or you will break the "bond" and have to pull it all apart clean it and go again. Total cure time can go out past 24 hours depending on the loctite your using and the ambient conditions.

Preperation is key to using all of them sucessfully, clean the thread (both sides) using taps, dies and wire brushes then if warrented metho and the loctite primer before putting it together new loctite trying to grab hold of old loctite is only about half as effective as it should be ditto for loctite trying to grab through rust.


first off the stuff for nuts and bolts.

242/243 and 262.
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Notice the american bottles, theyre big and they have a pretty picture.

242/243 is the one you use on the nut side of studs and smaller bolts say m5 through to m10 or as examples td5 rocker cover bolts and gearbox bell housing bolts. This is generally the one I use when I need to re use a nylock nut

262 is the one you put on bolts that you dont want coming undone without the big tools, things like brake caliper bolts and brake pedal tower bolts.


Ok screwlockers and the general purpose does it all loctite
222 and 277.
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again american bottle for the 222 and a description for the 277 (cause you cant put enough pics on a bottle that small)

the 222 is the one you use on small bolts or screws, the clutch tower cover plate screws and the dash screws are good examples

277 is a do it all loctite it can hold a bearing on a shaft, seal a gasket and lock a bolt. I dont generally recomend using it unless you really dont want to have it come off short of a gas axe or grinder. Its not great as a gasket former but will seal up a leaking gasket if the surfaces are clean enough and close enough to being a perfect fit.



and finally

supergoop and thread/flange sealant
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loctite 454 and 567

454 is what you use when you want to stick something to something else, fingers to paper work and loctite bottles seem to be the main use but it can occasionally be used to get dash material to stick to the backing insulation and that kind of thing. Its basically superglue with the consistancy of Jelly.

567 is PFTE tape in a squeezy tube smear it into the threads of drain and fill bungs and it wont leak from there. It sort of works as a gasket maker but doesnt excel at it. It works quite well at sealing the axle tube to swivel ball housing bolts but needs time to set up.

Your Loctite rep will send you a wall chart if you ask nicely.