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Thread: clutch question (SERIES 3)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Perth - WA
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    clutch question (SERIES 3)

    Hey all,

    A quick question. I think my clutch is gone. When I push the clutch down there is no resistence and I can't change gear at all. Is this just the master /slave cylinder thingos? or the actual clutch. It happened suddenly.

    cheers
    Jim

  2. #2
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    Jan 1970
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    Melrose SA
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    Sounds like the Slave/Master Cylinder thingos
    Does it have fluid at the Master Cylinder ?? (Above the steering box)
    My bet is it has no fluid if it has no resistance at all

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    odds on the slave cylinder has jagged its piston seal and shredded it. Check the following.

    1. do you have fluid (probabley not)
    2. is there evidence of fluid on the clutch pedal or inside the clutch tower (again probabley not)
    3. is there any evidence of the flex line down near the slave cylinder rupturing (not likely)
    4. remove/check the bell housing drain point for fluid. (should be brake fluid here)

    if its not the slave cylinder and youve blown the primary seal on the master cylinder you will have fluid in the resivior but the fluid will just be bypassing the masters piston, If both master piston seals are gone then the fluid will be leaking out of the master cylinder (not all master cylinders have both seals)

    in any case on a series a full redo of the hydraulics on the clutch should only take about half a day after you get all the parts.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the tips guys, the follow is true.

    1. There is very little (but a little bit) of dirty grey almost sandy fluid in the master cylinder (possibly been there for a while without a change).
    2. No evidence of fluid on pedal or flex line to slave.

    I'm yet to start taking it to pieces as I don't have the parts.

    Perhaps its best to get all new bits and freshen it up.

    Jim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    blown slave cylinder, given the condition of the fluid do yourself a favor pull both the maste rand the slave and get them sleved with stainless steel.

    someone should know a local supplier for you but any good truck brake parts shop should be able to help out with new units and any good brake shop should know someone who does it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Cape Town
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    s.steel

    I sleeved mine in stainless. Cost the same as a new cylinder but at least it won't need doing again. Only the seals possibly.
    Do both while you have the system in pieces because bleeding is a pain. Also make sure you put the slave cylinder back with the nipple at the top.
    Good luck.
    James
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

  7. #7
    Snapper Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    odds on the slave cylinder has jagged its piston seal and shredded it. Check the following.

    1. do you have fluid (probabley not)
    2. is there evidence of fluid on the clutch pedal or inside the clutch tower (again probabley not)
    3. is there any evidence of the flex line down near the slave cylinder rupturing (not likely)
    4. remove/check the bell housing drain point for fluid. (should be brake fluid here)

    if its not the slave cylinder and youve blown the primary seal on the master cylinder you will have fluid in the resivior but the fluid will just be bypassing the masters piston, If both master piston seals are gone then the fluid will be leaking out of the master cylinder (not all master cylinders have both seals)

    in any case on a series a full redo of the hydraulics on the clutch should only take about half a day after you get all the parts.

    I Just had mine changed under warranty as "Larry" drove me through a red light last week from a standstill. Had my foot on the clutch in first gear at the lights when all of a sudden he jolted forward. At first I thought I was rear ended but as I kept going and by the time I stalled it I was a full car length over the line.

    Just as well I was first cab off the rank. The drivers coming from my right were a little confused.

    Snapper

  8. #8
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    How much does a machining, stainless steel sleeve and seal kit usually cost?

    Aaron.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Had mine done recently (Defender)

    Machine and stainless sleeve ~ $80
    Master cylinder kit.............. ~ $12
    Slave cylinder complete ...... ~ $40

    And a couple of hours of my time.


    Martyn

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    The reason why I asked the cost, is I bought my last new clutch master for $66.

    Aaron.

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