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i just edited my profile. from some further searching i've realised that i had the right component. seems like the last time it was removed, it was thought to be a good idea to loctite it back on... hopefully tomorrow when i get it off, i will still find some thread to screw in to.
MR Automotive. Send me a pm if you want me to pick some up for you and express post tthem to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by George130
im pretty sure with new engine filters you will need 9.2L of oil, but im no expertQuote:
Originally Posted by simonr23
Not just yet I'm still trying to recover from all the $$$$ I have just spent on both rigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron
Thanks though.
if your standing in front of the car looking at the engine the centrifuge filter is on the right hand side of the engine in front of the turbo charger but more towards the center of the engine and lower down.... it looks like a round dome held down by 2 10mm bolts Mine has lever cast in it but dont use a lever on it it should come free by hand pressure.
you need 7.2l of oil from a dry sump + whatever the filter holds. The manual says it takes an extra liter if you change the filter but its not that much. the manual also says that the quantities are a guide ONLY and that level plugs and dipsticks must be used where provided to ensure correct oil levels
when you top up the oil pour in 6l after dealing with the filters, check the oil and it will be near the full mark on the dipstick.
start it up and let it idle for about 30 seconds or so and while your at it check for oil leaks on your 2 filters. Stop the engine and wait for 30 seconds. check the oil again (dont forget to wipe and recheck) then add more oil. after you add oil wait 30 seconds or so for most of it to drain down into the sump.
Get a hold of a rave cd in the markets section it will save you heaps in the long run regards David
If I remember correctly the domed cover for the centrifuge has threads cut into the holes through which the little 10mm bolts pass. I assume this is so that you can get the bolts started with the cap in your hand then put the thing on and carefully tighten the bolts down evenly.
Please let me know if I was hallucinating last time I changed mine or if this really is so.
I managed to loose the bolt into the mountings of the motor where it couldnt be retrieved and I had to fashion up a replacement.
Just one thing regarding the centrifuge cover. The bolts are 6mm not 10mm, 10mm is the size of the spanner/socket required to undo them not the thread size.
Also you should use a torque wrench to tighten the sump plug. It only requires 23Nm or 17 ft lb. This doesn't feel like very much but do not be tempted to overtighten it.
thanks for all your help. got it done over the weekend and went for a 400k drive yesterday. goes well. i did a 0-100 test when it was 32degrees and it does it in about 14secs. could the car be chipped by the previous owner? 14 secs seems too fast for an auto td5 disco. also can accelerate up sellicks hill/ willunga hill at 100k's in 4th without unlocking the torque converter. doesnt gain speed very fast, but its a consistent amount of urge there.
my last maintainence is to service the trans, t/case and diffs. are these things easy to do with just basic tools. or is it just as worthwhile going to a mechanic and getting it done. i can provide the fluids if there are superior brands/types that perhaps they wont use.
thanks again.
32mm spanner for gear box drain or a cut down socket (not much room between gearbox and drive shaft). Torx T55(?) for gearbox filler/level plug. 1/2" tee bar/breaker bar for trasfer case and diff plugs. Recommend a pump for filling with oil. I use a cheapo jobby that screws on to the neck of the oil bottle. Most places like Super Cheese sell them. Other than that it's easy peasy and isn't worth spending the money on some one else.