Thread: td5 service time

Some people think they can do it without removing the cover of the engine... I cant.

Take the engine cover off.. 3 8 or 10mm bolts. the turbo heat ssheild 2 8mm and one 10mm (you will need a 3inch extension bar) That should let your see better and get better leverage on the oil filter if you are trying to take it off with your hand.

If you cant get it off by hand, and dont want to bang a screw driver through it spilling ooil everywhere, go to AutoBarne and get one of these as these let you have enough room to spin the filter, unlike the normal strap wrenches, which didnt work for me.

http://www.renault4.co.uk/technical/...ange-tools.jpg

Cost about 6 dollars.

Fuel filter has an electrical connect (not sure what it does) that will be a bastard to get off, just go slowly and lever it apart. You will need to squirt it with WD40/equivalent lube spray if its hard, i use the tube nossel thing to squirt the mud out of it.

I think it is recomened to disconnect the battery.

You sump plug on the engine will be very very very tight.. enjoy :P (17mm socket and a long extension bar) 20 dollars for a new sump plug :P Again... enjoy :P

Also, with the centrifuge filter dont over tighten the bolts. 9nm is what is recommended, and no loctite

Originally Posted by Aaron

You sump plug on the engine will be very very very tight.. enjoy :P (17mm socket and a long extension bar) 20 dollars for a new sump plug :P Again... enjoy :P

Where did you get that price from?
I ended up buying a high tensile bolt for my sump plug as I was told 1 week to get and $50.

having just shown dad through a filter change on big red.....

LR110 TD5 Minor Service


Prep work

Clean Everything, detergent, a low pressure hose and a detailing scrubbing brush are your friends. Let it dry.

disconnect the 2 electrical connections from the air trunk that runs from the filter box through a u bend into the turbo, then remove that trunk and the filter housing top.

I like to remove the bonnet. Close both vent flaps, dont bother with the prop and then lift it off (takes 2 people unless you have a full lenght roof rack in which case stand on that and lift)
Change the primary filter

using a filter wrench or strap remover undo the main filter about 1/4 of a turn and then reach around behind the turbo charger with your right hand and down through under the front of the turbo and slide a finger under the filter to support it while you unscrew it.

Un screw it and then with your right hand pull the filter base back towards your engine block then tilt the top out towards you and grab the top with your left hand and remove it.

TO replace fill the new filter about 1/2 way with oil and smear the sealing ring on the top with fresh oil and reverse the steps above.


Changing the centrifuge filter

Undo the 2 10mm nuts on the top of the housing
Remove the cover, sealing ring and the filter
replace with the new filter after cleaning the housing with a lint free rag and then install the new seal after applying a very thing smear of engine oil.
replace the cap and tighten the bolts to 10nm.

Changine the oil
Drop the oil by removing the drain bung which is a 17mm bolt (use a single hex socket if you have them) with a brass washer. Replace the brass washer and after all the oil has drained wipe the femal threads of the sump with a rag and then smear the threads with locktite 567 or other pfte based thread sealant.

Remove the yellow oil cap and add 6l of engine oil (read your manual speak to you supplier I use nulon 10/40 fully synthetic)

Cleaning the air filter
remove the top of the air filter housing and withdraw the filter on a cardboard box that is empty and upside down lightly drop the filter from about 6 inches with the dirty side down (the same way as it fits into the filter box) and repeat. Mine took 6 drops to sort out.

Replace the air filter.

Post service stuff
Remove the electrical connector from the front right of the engine rocker cover/head and eyeball that for oil. If you have oil there you need to get the head side harness replaced and clean out the body side of the harness, you have less than 5000Km from when it first starts to leak before the oil turns up at your ECU, Replace the connector

Check the accessories drive belt. get in there with a torch and eyeball the thing cracks, flaking, fretting, tears, contamination are all bad and you should look at replacing the belt. Look at all the pullies it runs on as well.

Check the clutch fluid (assumng you have a clutch) and if its got black floaties in it its time for a flush

check the brake fluid.

check the coolant. Actually remove the cap and dip a finger in there or eye ball in there with a torch.

Check every hose on the engine for chafing/weeps

Under the vehicle

remove the clutch housing drain bolt and nothing should come out.(3/8th ratchet

remove the gearbox fill plug and check the level/condition (drivers side up above the tcase front output uni) (its a torqz bit)

remove and check the tcase oil fill plug (up just above the center line of the parbrake drum and about level with the circumference of it) (1/2 inch drive 10 inch extention and ratchet)

remove and check both diff oil levels +condition) bung on the front/rear of the diff (1/2 inch drive ratchet)

Grease the Ujs on each propshaft and the slip joints, 1 shot of grease only per nipple (check the shaft, Uj's and drive flanges for play while your at it)

Using a pry bar with the axle unweighted on the side you wish to check wiggle the main suspension arm mounts and listen for clunking and watch for bushes that sit off center or dont return to center.

Eyeball the brake discs for wear, if you have a ridge that is deeper than a match head at the center or the tip where the pads dont run you need to get the rotors checked professionally (do both sides of each rotor) and if your pads appear to have less than about 3mm of friction material on them they are nearing requireing replacing.

To check the Aframe ball joint chock the back wheels with about 1/2 an inch of free play and rock the vehicle back and forth by pushing the body/chassis, when you get a good amount ove movement up have some one jam the brakes on hard repeat for both directions and then push the body work sidways, clunking is bad..

Check All the exterior lights


That should see you right for a minor service.

that is an awseome reply! thanks.
i did everything except i couldnt find/change the rotor filter. well i think i found it, basically above the normal filter and accesed from above, but the 2 10mm bolts that hold the domey looking thing were on so tight that my cheapy small socket driver slipped on its ratchet. if that was the right thing i was dealing with, it sure was done up tight!

if that isnt the cover for the rotor, can someone please explain where it is!

i followed the instructions for re-priming the fuel system after doing the fuel filter and the step that says, hold throttle 100% wasnt needed(found out too late). i was worried that it could have caused damage. luckily i got off the pedal very fast.

i used the penrite diesel5 oil. stupid 10l bottle has no markings to show how much ive used. using a stick i think ive put about 6 litres in, but after a quick drive its not even showing at the low mark yet. i'm about to go outside and recheck now.

oh i tried to remove the plastic engine cover, and the stupid right side screw is buggered somehow. it feels loose, but all the unwinding in the world wont remove it from whatever its attached to. and whatever its attached to, is by some miracle, still attached to the block. grrr!

i assume that until i get the cover off, i cant check the main ecu wiring and the injector harness for oil?

nope you can do the lot with the covers in place but you need to know where everything is before you start. Once you know where it all is you can do it blindfolded.

cheers, and please can you tell me where to find the rotor filter. as in if im standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay...
thanks again.