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Thread: (somewhat) urgent ? about valley cover gasket

  1. 23rd January 2009, 08:58 PM #1
    POD's Avatar
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    (somewhat) urgent ? about valley cover gasket

    The valley cover front and rear rubber seals on my 3.9 1994 RR have been leaking since I have had the car, I have finally got around to pulling it down and replacing the valley cover and rocker cover gaskets. The valley cover gasket i have been supplied is of a different type to what I have used before on my old 1988RR 3.5 now 4.4. This gasket is plain stainless steel with no bonded paper gasket on it at all, just a rolled lip all around the ports etc. I'm in two minds as to whether I should put this steel gasket on dry or if i should put some 3Bond or similar on the manifold-to-head part of the gasket. Thgought I would try here for some advice. I was planning on finishing the job tonight but might pack up soon and attack it again tomorrow.
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  2. 23rd January 2009, 09:17 PM #2
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    justinc
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    The tin valley gasket is fine, but yes use a sealant around water and inlet ports, both sides of the gasket. Hylomar is recommended for this application and is all I use.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  3. 23rd January 2009, 09:19 PM #3
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    I personally find 3Bond to be perfect in this application.
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  4. 23rd January 2009, 09:22 PM #4
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    Ive had sucsess with the purple loctite flange sealant, I think 515.
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  5. 23rd January 2009, 09:31 PM #5
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    Thanks for the replies. I have some 3-bond on hand, I use this on my 4.4 with the 3.5EFI manifold and adaptor plates, has worked well so i'll go with that tomorrow. Or I might go out and get some hylomar. Hopefully I'll be feeling more decisive in the morning.
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  6. 23rd January 2009, 09:47 PM #6
    stage one
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    As a fitter & turner, that hates oil leaks, I use and recommend, a high metalic silver spray paint on all tight fitting machined, metal surfaces that get hot & can take pressure. Works on head gaskets, inlet, oil pumps & is a fraction of the price of the fancy stuff (that offten breaks down with heat, oil and age). Sliver paint, thing of the future, from the past. Will stick like sh** to a blanket on a clean surface, bake hard and stay there. My engines don't leak!
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  7. 24th January 2009, 02:20 AM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by stage one View Post
    I use and recommend, a high metallic silver spray paint on all tight fitting machined, metal surfaces that get hot & can take pressure.
    Any particular brand?
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  8. 24th January 2009, 08:15 AM #8
    stage one
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    Killrust frost, the paint isn't that important, it's the tiny alloy particals that do the work. You want a paint with as many of these as possible. Last can I used was a cheep one called "Squrits".
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  9. 25th January 2009, 03:27 PM #9
    Pierre
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    Do the items come apart, or a jack hammer needed?

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
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  10. 25th January 2009, 03:44 PM #10
    stage one
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    will be a bit sticky, but then you shouldn't have to take it apart to offen.
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