Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: (somewhat) urgent ? about valley cover gasket

  1. 23rd January 2009, 08:58 PM #1
    POD's Avatar
    POD
    POD is offline ChatterBox Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
    Posts
    2,780
    Total Downloaded
    0

    (somewhat) urgent ? about valley cover gasket

    The valley cover front and rear rubber seals on my 3.9 1994 RR have been leaking since I have had the car, I have finally got around to pulling it down and replacing the valley cover and rocker cover gaskets. The valley cover gasket i have been supplied is of a different type to what I have used before on my old 1988RR 3.5 now 4.4. This gasket is plain stainless steel with no bonded paper gasket on it at all, just a rolled lip all around the ports etc. I'm in two minds as to whether I should put this steel gasket on dry or if i should put some 3Bond or similar on the manifold-to-head part of the gasket. Thgought I would try here for some advice. I was planning on finishing the job tonight but might pack up soon and attack it again tomorrow.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 23rd January 2009, 09:17 PM #2
    justinc's Avatar
    justinc
    justinc is offline Swaggie Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The tin valley gasket is fine, but yes use a sealant around water and inlet ports, both sides of the gasket. Hylomar is recommended for this application and is all I use.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 23rd January 2009, 09:19 PM #3
    djam1's Avatar
    djam1
    djam1 is offline ChatterBox
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melrose SA
    Posts
    2,838
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I personally find 3Bond to be perfect in this application.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 23rd January 2009, 09:22 PM #4
    Euan Sands's Avatar
    Euan Sands
    Euan Sands is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    15
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ive had sucsess with the purple loctite flange sealant, I think 515.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 23rd January 2009, 09:31 PM #5
    POD's Avatar
    POD
    POD is offline ChatterBox Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
    Posts
    2,780
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the replies. I have some 3-bond on hand, I use this on my 4.4 with the 3.5EFI manifold and adaptor plates, has worked well so i'll go with that tomorrow. Or I might go out and get some hylomar. Hopefully I'll be feeling more decisive in the morning.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 23rd January 2009, 09:47 PM #6
    stage one
    stage one is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Based in Toowoomba Qld now.
    Posts
    90
    Total Downloaded
    0
    As a fitter & turner, that hates oil leaks, I use and recommend, a high metalic silver spray paint on all tight fitting machined, metal surfaces that get hot & can take pressure. Works on head gaskets, inlet, oil pumps & is a fraction of the price of the fancy stuff (that offten breaks down with heat, oil and age). Sliver paint, thing of the future, from the past. Will stick like sh** to a blanket on a clean surface, bake hard and stay there. My engines don't leak!
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 24th January 2009, 02:20 AM #7
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!     Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,704
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by stage one View Post
    I use and recommend, a high metallic silver spray paint on all tight fitting machined, metal surfaces that get hot & can take pressure.
    Any particular brand?
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 24th January 2009, 08:15 AM #8
    stage one
    stage one is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Based in Toowoomba Qld now.
    Posts
    90
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Killrust frost, the paint isn't that important, it's the tiny alloy particals that do the work. You want a paint with as many of these as possible. Last can I used was a cheep one called "Squrits".
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 25th January 2009, 03:27 PM #9
    Pierre
    Pierre is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Blairgowrie, Vic
    Posts
    1,106
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Do the items come apart, or a jack hammer needed?

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 25th January 2009, 03:44 PM #10
    stage one
    stage one is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Based in Toowoomba Qld now.
    Posts
    90
    Total Downloaded
    0
    will be a bit sticky, but then you shouldn't have to take it apart to offen.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
« td5 service time | 1976 2 door Diffs »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!