Are there any findings from the test that you are able to post yet?
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Thanks Ben.
I'm was actually referring to the gas outlet; the bottom drain goes through the 1-way valve to the sump via the original return hose. So no problems in that respect.
My problem is finishing off the gas outlet. I was looking for a 1-way valve (that I was confident would shut off when wading through deep water) to fit and seal the gas outlet if required. I will check out those mid 80's japanese cars you mentioned in a previous post.
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 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Are there any findings from the test that you are able to post yet?
The gas outlet must go to the engine intake or the outside air, not plumbed back to the motor or you are not allowing the crankcase to breathe - the whole point of the gas coming out in the first place.
On mine it's plumbed into the air intake (must be before the turbo).
Dave
1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 50 years old
2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
2021 Mazda BT50 or is that DMax?
There is already a one-way valve in the gas outlet, however it is designed to block off if there is too much suction, rather than what you want.
If you REALLY want to keep an open breather system, running a hose from the gas outlet down to chassis level should be sufficient to stop water getting in when wading. The one-way valves I mentioned earlier are too small for the gas outlet, I was suggesting them for the drain if you don't have the M+H one way valve.
If it was my car I would simply plumb the gas outlet back to the intake as per factory. With a provent fitted, the cleaning intervals for your intercooler should be extended by 10x if not longer.
as an attachment to a post
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
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Here are the results so far. They are not very conclusive yet, as we haven't done the destructive testing, and only 15 out of 50 people have lived up to their end of the bargain.
However the thing that is clear is that - the age of an engine is the most important factor wrt blowby and therefore Provent element life.
After these results were finalised I got another filter back from a heavily tweaked Tdi which was ~30mBar.
- just so everyone remembers - the Provent will vent to atmosphere if the pressure drop gets to 50mBar, however it is reccomended that the element should be changed at 20mBar.
 
 
		As Coastie asked...how to measure that?
BTW I'll take pics of my installation and bowl/element tomorrow and send over to you to see...I can't understand if the element is wet as it's supposed to be or soaked...but it only has 15000Km or so I believe.
Old Cube just hitted the 160'000 Kms!

Sorry, but there is no easy way to measure pressure drop across the filter unless you buy a manometer and plumb it in.
There is no harm in waiting till the vent pops, as long as your oil seals are in good nick.
In most situations, the provent should be fine for 1500hrs (multiply that by the average speed you would travel at for km).
The filter should look oily in use. It should slso be fit and forget unless the vent pops.
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