TD5 defender drive flanges

**sumo** · 30th April 2008, 05:25 PM

Originally Posted by oldyella 76

I have rear worn drive flanges in my 2000 defender(170,000 k.) It has been suggested to me that I weld the flange to the axle. I have had a look at previous posts and found only one example and that had failed. An ex L.R. dealer advised me to disconnect the battery, place the earth on the axle/drive flange and weld it. He said he has done heaps and had no problems. What I thought I might do is jack the wheel up, turn the wheel so that the splines are in contact in the forward direction, tack it with the axle & drive flange in place so that it is true with the diff centre. Then remove the axle & flange pre heat the flange & axle end, then mig it on the outside. Wait till it cools the machine drive flange face true to the axle. I have concerns for the electrics E.C.U. ect
Any comments please. Thanks

G/Day mate, My 130 tray back had welded flanges when i bought it.

Its not worth it in my opinion unless your stuck up somewhere, You can only weld the outside, so it leaves to much leverage there the weld will fail eventually.If both sides could be fully welded it might be a different scenerio. Just my opinion.

Cheers Sumo.

**roverrescue** · 30th April 2008, 06:11 PM

Being able to seperate flanges and axles can be handy if you have a diff issue or pop a shaft... can remove driveshaft, slip out the axles, bolt flanges back and continue in 2wd.
Welded flanges will leave a gaping hole to the bearings, difficult to fill effectively.

Steve

**rick130** · 30th April 2008, 06:21 PM

Hy-Tough (ne Maxi Drive) axles and flanges and convert the hubs to oil lubed bearings using an RTC3511 hub seal.
Problem solved.

**Tusker** · 1st May 2008, 07:41 AM

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

I really dont like the sound of welding them up to be honest but if you do.

Disconnect the battery and the 10as unit.

Land Rover say only the battery as far as I recall but the 10as unit doesnt like welding and most probably will not work afterwards.

Cheers
Peter.

OK, I'll ask on behalf of all dumbos: What's a 10as unit?

TIA
Max P

**oldyella 76** · 1st May 2008, 07:56 AM

Thanks all, I'm not happy with welding on vehicles that have extensive electrics either. So I am going to make a jig to keep the axle straight and the flange square, might take a hour on the lathe but won't affect any electronics.
Oldyella76.

**Psimpson7** · 1st May 2008, 08:09 AM

immobiliser unit.

**Graz** · 1st May 2008, 08:32 AM

Could someone enlighten me as to what the 10as unit is. I am about to commence fabricating the tray back on my 130 which will involve a fair bit of mig welding on the vehicle

Thanks

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

I really dont like the sound of welding them up to be honest but if you do.

Disconnect the battery and the 10as unit.

Land Rover say only the battery as far as I recall but the 10as unit doesnt like welding and most probably will not work afterwards.

Cheers
Peter.

**Psimpson7** · 1st May 2008, 08:50 AM

immobiler unit....

cheers
Pete.

**abaddonxi** · 1st May 2008, 08:58 AM

Welding drive flanges on the rear axles is fine to get you out of trouble.

But, it means that both your axles and flanges are now stuffed, so at some point have to replace both. To me it's a way to get you out of trouble.

You could just replace the flanges, which are probably the stuffed bit.

Don't do this on the front.

Cheers
Simon

**Jeff** · 1st May 2008, 03:02 PM

Dont do it. I had a S2A with welded flanges and they broke through the welds after a while. I replaced the flanges and shaft with parts off another 2A I had at the time. The flanges on the Defender I own now has been through one set of flanges in 190 000ks.

Jeff

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